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The Weasel Formation
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Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 

Little Weasel Spire 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 230', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1 [details]
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter . May 7th 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: USBRIT on May 8, 2008

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Terriers on belay at the start of first pitch

Description 

Climbs a connected spire at the far West (left side of the Weasel formation . Good rock fine situations.P1). The route climbs the north side .Starts below some grooves that lead to an obvious crack system that leads to the gap below the headwall.Up a short thin crack then another groove to a ledge with good cam belay left of the long crack.70'5.7. P2)Move left and gain the crack which was climbed using a #4,#5,#6 friends cam. These were slid ,odd one was pulled on to reach double anchors..(will go all free) 5.9 AO. 100'P3)Climb up left and ascend the headwall with use of 2 cams 4 bolts and two threads to a fine summit 5.5 C1 60'. Register in hole 2'below summit. Rap to the top of P2 then full rap to the ground.

Location 

See description of approach to Ozymandias. The Little Weasel spire is about 5 mins past this start to the east. Walk around the end of the formation to the north side.

Protection 

Cams 1/4" to two#4 two#5 one#6 Friends. Slings. two 60m ropes.


Photos of Little Weasel Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Angry Rattle Snake tripped over on way back to cam...
Angry Rattle Snake tripped over on way back to cam...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the headwall pitch 3
On the headwall pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: On the summit looking north
On the summit looking north
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing top of Pitch 2
Nearing top of Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the 100' crack pitch 2
Starting the 100' crack pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul top of first pitch
Paul top of first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Closer view of the spire from the south
BETA PHOTO: Closer view of the spire from the south
Rock Climbing Photo: The Little Weasel spire is located on the far left...
BETA PHOTO: The Little Weasel spire is located on the far left...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the summit looking south
On the summit looking south
Rock Climbing Photo: Layne topping out
Layne topping out

Comments on Little Weasel Spire Add Comment
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By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jun 18, 2010

No known second ascend ascent as of June 2010
By dejaentendu707 Johnson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 27, 2017

Did this yesterday with Tanner Frost. We were planning on doing it as a warm up for some of the other routes up there, but weather prevented us from getting on anything else. It took us a while to actually find this one because the descriptions for both "Little Weasel Spire" and "Sodizin Tower" say they are on the far east side of the Weasel Formation. We didn't have a compass, but we would have argued this one is actually on the far west side while Sodizin is on the east. The second pitch eats up big pieces like crazy. I ended up walking #3-6 camalots several times. I aided almost the entire pitch, and thought it was pretty strenuous. You could certainly free that pitch, but you'd better love really awkward offwidths if you're going to try... We were happy to find the bolts and anchors all in fantastic shape. We looked in the hole below the summit but couldn't find a register.
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 27, 2017

Sorry Chaps your right West .. Have changed ... Good effort .... Greetings from the UK ...

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