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Little Tension Whore 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mike Dobie. FFA: Marcos Costa
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: Brandon Gottung on Dec 24, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Groovey route!

Description 

Another rad Li Ming two-star route. This is a must-do if you are looking for a short, unique challenge. It'd be way more exciting without the bolt, but I clipped it.

Cruiser fist-and-hand jamming leads to narrowing fingers into a seamed-out groove and two hard-earned meters of progress. Clipping the anchor felt cruxy.

Location 

Nearly halfway between The Cave and Ding Dong's Crack. The trail runs a couple meters underneath the route. Look for the tall, narrow pillar that creates Little Tension Whore and Chocolate Corner.

Protection 

Single set .1 to #3 or #4 is more than enough. Skip the bolt or leave the smallest cams behind.


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By Drew Marshall
Mar 7, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

A fun, funky climb - makes for a stellar route if you link it into Chocolate Corner.
You can skip the bolt with nuts and small cams, and you can free climb into Chocolate Corner at 5.11 instead of doing the tension traverse.

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