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Little Stephen 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 28, 2016

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Talon topo from the south.

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The Talon’s intimidating north face succumbs to this relatively moderate line thanks to a series of perfectly spaced, hidden jugs. The airy position and huge holds make this a highly entertaining climb, despite its short length, and the perfect warm-up for the crag’s other lines.

Begin with fingery, vertical, face climbing along intricate dinner plates. The crux comes in this section, with some 1-pad crimps and a long reach from an undercling to reach the juggy upper half. After a good shake, veer left towards the arête, where massive jugs work along the northeast edge of the precipitous upper wall.


This climbs the overhanging north face of The Talon.


5 bolts to 2BA. A stick clip is recommended.

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Rock Climbing Photo: The original Little Stephen.
The original Little Stephen.

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