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The Talon
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Little Stephen 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 28, 2016

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Talon topo from the south.

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Description 

The Talon’s intimidating north face succumbs to this relatively moderate line thanks to a series of perfectly spaced, hidden jugs. The airy position and huge holds make this a highly entertaining climb, despite its short length, and the perfect warm-up for the crag’s other lines.

Begin with fingery, vertical, face climbing along intricate dinner plates. The crux comes in this section, with some 1-pad crimps and a long reach from an undercling to reach the juggy upper half. After a good shake, veer left towards the arête, where massive jugs work along the northeast edge of the precipitous upper wall.

Location 

This climbs the overhanging north face of The Talon.

Protection 

5 bolts to 2BA. A stick clip is recommended.


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Rock Climbing Photo: The original Little Stephen.
The original Little Stephen.

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