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5.8 Crack T,TR 
Little Roof T,TR 
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Little Roof 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Howe, 1991
Page Views: 490
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Nov 17, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: fun move, then its over


This route ascends the large crack in the roof just to the right of the bolted arete climb. Once you're over the top, slab climbing with cracks for holds await.

There is an interesting move to get yourself over the roof, but other than that the climb is hardly worth doing. After the roof, the slab is simple, and go up over the next bulge to the top anchor.

You will find this quite reachy if you're under 6', but it's still quite doable.


Small nuts and friends to 1", and a 2 1/2" friend to get over the roof. Bring a 6' sling for a top rope, and the bolts can be apporached from the right.

Photos of Little Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ivan moving past the roof.  Gear is a bit strenuou...
Ivan moving past the roof. Gear is a bit strenuou...

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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Apr 20, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route is fun! I think the moves up to the roof are very interesting with some great moves requiring good balance and positioning (to make the moves fluent). I first did the roof using a very iffy right hand jam up and around in the groove. Very iffy as I moved upward to get left hand on something. Did the climb a second time but instead of jamming (already had too much blood on my right hand) I reached high with left hand over lip about 10" to get good horizontal. Struggling a bit, I was able to take some weight with right leg under roof and moved right hand up to match. Now a not so high step with right foot, and a pull and lock off with left hand enabled a long reach to very good buckets. Rest of the route is easy. I think this would be a tough lead unless the gear under the roof is good. I didn't try placing but the placements look questionable. A fair rating here as in the Falcon Guide. The Falcon Guide seems to be right on at Dry Creek Sea Crag so far. After a long day of climbing, the long trek up the hill back to the car made that first beer that much more enjoyable!
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jan 23, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Went back with my brother Ivan and he decided to try and lead the route. Turns out the gear is quite good although a bit strenuous to hang around and place. It's a short climb but actually quite good climbing.If you are into trad, this is quite a good route to do!
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Jun 23, 2010

I agree that the climb is a good trad route. The gear is bomber underneath the roof. Above, the thin crack takes small nuts.
By David Engel
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Jul 30, 2017

It's interesting that the author of the description notes that the climb is hardly worth doing. Why bother to write about a climb if you are so negative? On my trips there, we have people working on this project climb all day. It's a good workout and requires good skill. We have discovered an additional way to do the roof. We pinch the right hand skyline and forget the crack in the roof. We use an opposing hand do hold us onto the climb. The right foot swings to the far right and slightly around the corner to a slopy hold. We dyno on the two opposing hand holds until we can reach the crack above the overhang.

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