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Little River Canyon

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From MP's sister site:

Little River Canyon  Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.35929, -85.66846 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,277
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: TylerKC on Dec 18, 2016  with updates from Garrett Garner-Wells
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Photo: Tyler Casey tylercaseyphoto.squarespace.co...

Description 

Little River Canyon National Preserve is a classic and historic climbing area located in Fort Payne AL.

Previously kept under the radar during the 80's/90's Little River Canyon has since been exposed for the past 10 years or so and thus featured in every major magazine to the sport.

The climbing here is steep and thuggy at times as well as technical thin and vert. The sandstone is of grand quality and the season is practically year round.

For a southern hardman LRC is not to be missed especially the famous "Concave" wall with it's collection of classic lines in the .13-.14 range.

Getting There 

From Fort Payne, follow AL-35 14 miles to
"Little River Canyon National Preserve"

From here there is a two lane road with pulloffs at multiple spots for whatever wall you wish to access.

Camping 

For primitive camping, check out True Adventure Sports. This smaller campground is right next to Canyon Rim Road, about a mile and a half from Unshackled Wall. They have a pit toilet and running water.

For those seeking more amenities and quicker access to the northeastern walls of the canyon, check out Little River RV Park & Campground [link: littleriverrvpark.com]. It's more expensive than TAS, but they have hot showers, wifi and the owners are climber friendly. This campground is located next to AL-35, so bring earplugs.

Guidebooks 

Little River Canyon Guidebook

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 5.7 miles from here

44 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',19],['5.12',15],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Little River Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Little River Canyon :
Obsession   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport   Jungle Gym/Gray Wall
Lemonade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   Lizard Wall
Ruhama   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Ninja Wall
Buster Brown   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Jungle Gym/Gray Wall
Rocktoberfest   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   Tourist Wall : Rocktoberfest
Allthea   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   Lizard Wall
Touch of Gray   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Jungle Gym/Gray Wall
Rotten Pillar   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   Lizard Wall
Out of Africa   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Jungle Gym/Gray Wall
Toomsuba   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Tourist Wall : Toomsuba
Grasshopper   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Ninja Wall
Boy   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   Jungle Gym/Gray Wall
Lion    5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 55'   Jungle Gym/Gray Wall
Tusk   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Jungle Gym/Gray Wall
Dark Star   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   Lizard Wall
Tarzan   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 55'   Jungle Gym/Gray Wall
Heart of Darkness   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Jungle Gym/Gray Wall
Hooligans   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 50'   The Concave
Silverback   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 55'   The Concave
The Word   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 65'   The Concave
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Little River Canyon

Featured Route For Little River Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris sanders throwing big towards the top
 
 tyle...

Majosha 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Alabama : Little River Canyon : ... : Toomsuba
Classic Doug Reed route. Surmount a small ledge at the base and fire a thin technical pull. Traverse towards the right a bit underneath the roof and make sequential moves to gain access to a sloping jug. Huck a big move and trend left until you reach the finale consisting of a overhangin hand crack looming above the canyon.Summon your inner trad skills to pull the small roof and thrutch your way to the finishing ledge to clip the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in Alabama

Photos of Little River Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Canyon Rim Road in the fall.
Canyon Rim Road in the fall.

Comments on Little River Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By BirminghamBen
From: Birmingham, AL
Dec 19, 2016
Oh no....here we go again. Maybe this page will be allowed to stand this time.
By TylerKC
Administrator
From: Fayetteville Arkansas
Dec 19, 2016
I couldn't find any reason for it to not be allowed here. Already in 3 guidebooks, one of them solely based upon the canyon itself.
By BirminghamBen
From: Birmingham, AL
Dec 21, 2016
I don't disagree, but that was the excuse the last three times LRC was posted (and deleted) off of MP. Let's see if you get some nasty private messages or if the page goes away quietly. If not, in 90 days, I'll edit this post to free up room for usable content.

Little River Canyon is an awesome place with fantastic sport climbing. There even may be some harrowing trad routes down in the canyon. In that it is now published and as the park has expanded, I believe more resources will come to the area...

Beyond the climbing, I believe the area to be one of the most scenic in all of of the east coast and have enjoyed exploring from one end to the other over 30 years... Even jumped off of the main falls....twice.

By Garrett Garner-Wells
From: Denver, CO
Jan 5, 2017
I'm happy to help update additional areas if the community decides it's time for LRC to live on MP.

The new guidebook looks fantastic! Does anyone have an update on whether it's available? The Rockery website still says it won't ship until 10/1/2016.

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