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Little Porky S 
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Little Porky 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,687
Submitted By: steve chardon on Apr 20, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Dave at the top of the route. You can see the ro...


This route has exciting exposed face climbing the entire way. It follows the flat iron right arete from start to finish. Start at the same anchor as Salt Packed Pig Sack and head straight up. Delicately surmount the first overlap, then enjoy the ride. Half way up, rest at a ledge and peek around the corner if you dare. Continue on to the top to a two bolt anchor. Two ropes needed for rappel.


Same start as Salt Packed Pig Sack.


6 slings and 4 draws.

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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Apr 21, 2012

Grade V? I think this is incorrect. I dont see needing to spend a night on either of these routes...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 21, 2012

would be fun though huh :)
Ps. i edited it, must have been a mistake...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Apr 22, 2012

That would be a great time!
By jim.dangle
Apr 22, 2012

Looks like a fun route but what does "slings" mean for pro? Alpine draws? Runners?

By steve chardon
Apr 23, 2012

sorry on the grade and the descriptions. i'm 55 and haven't climbed for years :-) just getting back into it. what grade is a single pitch climb? by "slings" mean 2 foot runners w/ biners. old school ...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Apr 23, 2012

This is an excerpt from the American Alpine Club website:

National Climbing Classification System (USA):

NCCS grades are often called the “Commitment Grade”; they primarily indicate the time investment in a route for an “average” climbing team.
Grade I: Less than half a day for the technical portion.
Grade II: Half a day for the technical portion.
Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion.
Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least 5.7.
Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route.
Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing.
Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style.

So in this case you would give it a Grade I, if you put any on there. I personally would not put a commitment grade for this just because it is only 1 pitch of actual rock climbing.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 23, 2012

Come on Steve,, your not that old !!!
By David Ford
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 26, 2012

Sykes calls this "Little Porky," not sure if it goes by any other names. A great route in a spectacular setting, in any case.

EDIT! I just re-read this section of the guidebook and realized that "Little Porky" is actually an entirely different 5.9 on the right side of this formation... apparently a short pitch on the buttress that forms the start that this route and Salt Packed share. Sorry for causing confusion. I guess we're back to not knowing what this climb is called, but it's still great.
From: Boston, MA
Jul 13, 2014

Did this route yesterday, still not sure what its called, doesn't feel like 5.9 but just my opinion. There are around 10 bolts, all fairly new and in good shape. Take care around the large hollow flake about halfway up. General aspect/exposure on the route is great. Definitely recommended.

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