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Project Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Little Monkey 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Pegg
Page Views: 382
Submitted By: Peter J. Beyel on Aug 9, 2014

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Description 

This stout and short route climbs up to the first anchors on Sick Little Monkey. A stiff boulder problem guards the chains. Follow a bunch of not so great sidepulls and edges up a seldom climbed part of the Project Wall.

Location 

This is the leftmost route on the project wall.

Protection 

Five quickdraws to fixed biners at the first chains.


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By John Byrnes
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 3, 2015

The first four bolts, which were not stainless and badly rusted, have been replaced by stainless glue-in bolts. The original fifth bolt and the two anchor bolts are stainless, in good shape and were not replaced (although someone moved & replaced #5 at some previous time).


The crux is (now) a powerful V5. A line of chalked and ticked underclings goes up-left to a good edge, but this is a total dead-end. There's a rock-scar between the good edge and the rest of the route, so maybe there was a way to move right here in the past at 11c, but now you must stay low and crank like a mutant.

Balancy 11a climbing to a V5 crank.

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