Little Matterhorn Rock Climbing
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
GPS: |
40.3753, -105.616 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 18,581 total · 82/month |
Shared By: | Mitch Musci on Sep 11, 2005 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
The Little Matterhorn is the impressive chunk of rock jutting from the far end of the eastern ridge of Knobtop Mountain. Its eastern flanks are strewn with large cliff bands, while its west ridge holds a nice 4th class scramble to the summit. It seems there is much exploring to be done on this peak, with only a couple of established routes to the summit...one being the west ridge and another documented in Gillett's High Peaks guide of the Northeast Face Direct (II, 5.7). A large cliff band below the east face harbors some impressive lines as well. If anyone else knows of other routes that have been established on this peak, please feel free to add them.
Getting There
There are three ways to approach the Little Matterhorn, the first two of which start at Bear Lake.
The first (and shortest mileage) approach takes the Odessa Lake Trail for about 3 miles to an unmarked junction just north of Lake Helene. You can't quite see the lake from this junction, but if you start descending into Odessa Gorge, you've gone too far. Turn left at this junction, and follow a well-worn trail past Lake Helene's outlet stream to a faint junction with a small path heading northwest (right) into Odessa Gorge. Follow this old trail down several switchbacks to a long meadow on the valley floor. Cross the meadow, and bust straight up the hillside, trending right higher up and aiming for the left side of a tree-covered ramp that contours right below Little Matterhorn's summit cliffs. This ramp can be followed all the way to the base of the north face if desired, but be prepared for bouts of heavy petting and bushhwacking. Don't go too high on the ramp initially or you will get cliffed out.
A second approach takes the Odessa Lake trail approximately 3.5 miles to Odessa Lake. Circle the lake's north shore, and find a faint fisherman's trail that follows the inlet stream up into Tourmaline Gorge, staying on the north (right) side of the stream. Eventually you will cross the stream to its south side and follow cairns up a small gully and onto a bench that can be easily followed to the base of the north face.
The third approach simply starts at Fern Lake Trailhead. 4.2 miles on trail brings you to Odessa Lake.
The first (and shortest mileage) approach takes the Odessa Lake Trail for about 3 miles to an unmarked junction just north of Lake Helene. You can't quite see the lake from this junction, but if you start descending into Odessa Gorge, you've gone too far. Turn left at this junction, and follow a well-worn trail past Lake Helene's outlet stream to a faint junction with a small path heading northwest (right) into Odessa Gorge. Follow this old trail down several switchbacks to a long meadow on the valley floor. Cross the meadow, and bust straight up the hillside, trending right higher up and aiming for the left side of a tree-covered ramp that contours right below Little Matterhorn's summit cliffs. This ramp can be followed all the way to the base of the north face if desired, but be prepared for bouts of heavy petting and bushhwacking. Don't go too high on the ramp initially or you will get cliffed out.
A second approach takes the Odessa Lake trail approximately 3.5 miles to Odessa Lake. Circle the lake's north shore, and find a faint fisherman's trail that follows the inlet stream up into Tourmaline Gorge, staying on the north (right) side of the stream. Eventually you will cross the stream to its south side and follow cairns up a small gully and onto a bench that can be easily followed to the base of the north face.
The third approach simply starts at Fern Lake Trailhead. 4.2 miles on trail brings you to Odessa Lake.
Classic Climbing Routes at Little Matterhorn
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
High
|
Low
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
All Photos Within Little Matterhorn
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About Little Matterhorn
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (12)
0 Comments