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Asgard Tor
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Asgard Dihedral T 
Green Wall TR 
Little Maniac/Dead End Crack T,TR 

Little Maniac/Dead End Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Eric Breitenberger (TR) Dan Jaffe (Lead)
Page Views: 1,252
Submitted By: A Stolpe on Sep 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Perfect hands? Bottom half of Little Maniac. Photo...

Description 

This is THE crack of the Tors. The crack varies from hands to fingers before tapering out to 5.9 run-out at the top. A fixed pin at the top of the crack was pulled out with a gentle tug this summer. A couple bolts a the top of this climb would make the lead considerably safer.

To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to agree with the guide book that a belay makes the outing more pleasant. Being tall helps, too.

Location 

East side of Asgard Tor, north end. Obvious, clean, beautiful crack.

Protection 

Cams and nuts to 2" with 3 bolted anchors at top


Photos of Little Maniac/Dead End Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Follows the crack up the left side of the photo. T...
BETA PHOTO: Follows the crack up the left side of the photo. T...

Comments on Little Maniac/Dead End Crack Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Jun 10, 2013

This is the BEST pitch in the Fairbanks area, period. Do it. I could run laps on this all day long. Tape is nice as the rock is quite sharp.

I disagree with the comment above about adding bolts to make it a safer lead - it has been led as is, and if one really wanted to lead the crack portion but was concerned with the upper runout, you could pre-hang a length of cord or rope from the bolted anchor to clip on lead, thus eliminating the need for a bolt.
By Jason Shorey
Jun 8, 2015

Three bolts have been added to the top of this climb to eliminate "R" rating.
By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 8, 2015

Who added bolts?