Type: Trad
FA: Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff
Page Views: 1,429 total · 5/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Sep 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


0 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route climbs the narrow buttress directly above the gully which splits Bell Buttress. It is the first route you encounter as you scramble westward towards the upper bench from Cosmosis and can be distinguished by a fixed wire at mid-height.

Climb through the strange, down-pointing overlaps which define the buttress, aiming for a crack which splits the final roof before it trends left on easier ground to the bolt anchors atop the Mystery Arete out left. Lower from here with a 60-meter cord.

Though this route is reasonably well-protected, the rock down low is somewhat friable and there are two hanging daggers which you must negotiate (don't place gear in these) en route to summit glory. If someone were to trundle these, this might actually be a safe route.

Protection Suggest change

Your standard Boulder Canyon crack rack should get you up this pitch. The bottom takes small wires and TCUs, but the crack opens up at the top, so bring double #2 and #3 Camalots.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading