Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Laeger, Leversee, Harold Seiden 7/86
Page Views: 1,100 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 16, 2013
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

A pretty sweet, mostly crack route. Definitely recommended if you're looking to do some crack climbing at Courtright.

Climbs the huge, obvious flake on the left side of the dome. Approaches it by traversing in from the obvious roof. The Grand Inquisitor approaches the flake directly by, apparently, 5.11 face climbing. I'm not sure which route claims the flake as its own.

P1: Climb the dirty crack/seam to the roof. The route's crux is probably on this pitch. There is some face climbing in between cracks that was a little scary. Set up a hanging belay under the roof. 5.10 100ft.

P2: Undercling traverse left/down under the roof for 30 feet and set up a belay before transitioning into the flake. 5.10 30ft.

P3: Make a tricky move to gain the huge flake. Lay it back/stem for a long ways until it turns into a nice handcrack. Then it really starts curving right and gets easy/dirty. Keep following until you get to a nice little ledge to sit down on. 5.9 120ft.

P4: Head up the cool corner for a little bit and choose an escape route. We broke out right and climbed a nice little handcrack to the summit slabs. 5.8 100+ft.

Easy walk off climber's left.

Location Suggest change

4th class up to the ledge directly below the roof. First pitch crack/seam leads to the "down pointing crest" of the roof.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack with at least 2 #3s, 1 #4, and 1 #5 (C4s) is probably a good idea for the flake. Extra .5 for the roof traverse.

Photos

loading