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Little John, Left 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Doody, Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell, Wally Upton, 1962
Page Views: 3,633
Submitted By: Cory Harelson on May 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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LJ, left

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Start by scrambling up to the start of the short finger/hand crack in the left facing corner, and follow this to a small ledge at the base of the 3-4" crack in the corner. I found getting established in the crack to be the crux. Follow this to bolted anchors. I was barely able to jam my fists in the small constrictions, and I have somewhat large fists.


Located in the left facing corner a short distance uphill from Little John Right.


Single rack to 4"

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By Cory Harelson
From: Boise, ID
May 3, 2010

We did this as a warmup before Moby Dick, and I thought it worked well. This crack is similar in size and somewhat steeper than the crack at the top of Moby Dick (although Moby Dick is not in a corner). This climb is fun, but I wish the fists portion were longer . . .
By Alexey
From: San Jose
May 3, 2010

If you wish the fists portion longer and about same difficulty go to Reed's and climb first two pitches of Flatus 5.9 with direct left start
By Skot Richards
From: Lakewood
Apr 8, 2012

Just did this route april 2012... Super fun, good crack climb...
By Dave Millar
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 24, 2013

Great climb to practice your butterfly technique.
By dnaiscool
Mar 31, 2015

This climb makes 5.8's at other climbing areas feel like.... 5.6. If you feel the real need to work that wide, then have at this one, and bring that 4" gear.
By Laralyn Mowers
From: Astoria, NY
Jul 12, 2017

Maybe I just don't know how to work an off-width, but the top half of this pitch turned into an opportunity to practice the French Free. The rating seems a little soft for how technical that section is. I'd have rated it at least 5.10b. The rest of the climb is great though.

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