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Butter Knife T 
Going Down to Harlem with a Turd in My Shorts S 
Little Gremlins T,S 
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Little Gremlins 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Rich F. on Jul 8, 2012

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"Harlem, 5.8" is on the left, and "...

Check NPS for Closures


The first half of this route is "trad" going up two small finger/hand cracks (layback) stacked on each other (see photo). Above the top crack there are two bolts -- well placed, but far enough apart to give the route a little bit of a spice feel. Above the second bolt, one can also clip the anchors to the route on the right (Skid Marks, 5.10) as one more piece of protection before going the last 12 feet to the Gremlin anchors. I enjoyed the "mixed" feel of the route going from trad layback cracks to face climbing on crystals.


Approach as for "Pointy Devil"
This route starts 20 feet right of "Going Down to Harlem" and about 50 feet left (uphill) of "Pointy Devil" on the same wall. There appears to be another sport route (Skid Marks, 5.10?) sandwiched between Little Gremlins and Pointy Devil. The Little Gremlins route is easily identified by the two stacked cracks shown in the photo.


Small to medium cams (up to about a BD #1) for the two cracks, and two or three quickdraws. Chain anchors at the top of the climb. 60m rope is plenty long.

Photos of Little Gremlins Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda reading her book at the base of "Littl...
BETA PHOTO: Brenda reading her book at the base of "Littl...

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