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Sunshine Wall
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Little Gem 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Euan Cameron, Julie Wright, 6th August 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,792
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Sep 9, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Wall Selective Topo

Description 

Start a few feet right of the toe of the buttress. Climb up rightwards following the groove until possible to move directly up the steepening slab.

Climb directly up the wide shallow groove feature to gain quartz dike holds above. Follows these holds up the wall to just below the top, then finish direct to the right of the pine tree.

Location 

Right side of the main face

Protection 

8 bolts, double ring anchor (equipped with Mussy Hooks).


Photos of Little Gem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunshine Wall Main Slab Topo
BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Wall Main Slab Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Will high up on Little Gem
Will high up on Little Gem
Rock Climbing Photo: WIll Crick enjoying the moves on Little Gem
WIll Crick enjoying the moves on Little Gem
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the crux shallow groove on the first a...
Approaching the crux shallow groove on the first a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Little Gem
Little Gem

Comments on Little Gem Add Comment
Show which comments
By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

pretty sweet climb. stoked on the new little zone. its got some interesting moves that almost make it feel like 5.9. those moves get the 4th star. exciting 5.8 climb. also added some extra excitement factor as the climb was wet and the good foot holds were filled with snow.
By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Oct 1, 2013

Great climb
By Preston Rhea
From: Mammoth Lakes
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I led this climb in October of 2012 on trad gear. It followed the same line almost exactly except at the 4th both (what I think is the crux of the bolted line), I went a little bit to the right of the groove staying on the more featured dikes. With the variation, it felt more like a 5.7. The gear is small and a bit on the exciting side and it is a serious lead that way.

Great job bolting it! I like where you placed the 4th bolt. The whole line is great. So again, killer job!
By kenr
Aug 10, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good variety of thoughtful fun climbing moves, sustained difficulty.

Top-Rope: If you want to have multiple people climb it on Top-Rope after leading this route, I suggest bringing a couple of long slings ... because the two-bolt anchor for leading is set above away from the edge of the steeper rock, so you'd have more rope drag over the edge if Top-Rope directy off the two-bolt anchor for leading.

We instead used as our TR anchor the obvious large tree with bare twin trunks. Attached a long sling off that. Plus a directional on one of the bolts about one-third the way up from the ground.

We were able to reach the top anchor by scrambling down from above (without leading this route) ... by going way out around the left side of the crag. But that took a lot of work and time, much on steep slippery sandy stuff (with some exposure?) -- so likely makes more sense for most parties to Lead up to the anchor.
By splitclimber
Sep 18, 2015

great climb but I felt the bolts were a little out of place, mostly a weird runout at the end where it still felt sustained.