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Duck Wall
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Index Air Force T 
Little Fire T 
Making the little ducks quack T,TR 
Meadow and Spicer T 
Message of Love S 
Planet Caravan T 
Sweets for Manuel T 
Them T 

Little Fire 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Derek Pearson and Brian Ebert
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,728
Submitted By: derekpearson Pearson on Aug 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Derek on pitch 4, on the FA. Photo by Matt Van Bie...

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Walk up forested ledge towards Meadow and Spicer. Near the crest, about 30' from that route, cut left and down slightly on the obvious ledge.

P1: Walk the above ledge. From the end of the ledge go up to the base of a clean corner (5.5).

P2: Climb the clean, large left-facing corner. Sustained. Traverse out the roof (pumpy) to a rest. Then climb the wide crack with face holds on the main Duck Wall face. Some excitement as you approach the fixed anchor (5.10).

P3: Traverse right and up to the base of a roof band.

P4: Traverse left, just under the roof band (5.10d).

P5: Go up, trending right to the top. This pitch can be combined with P4.

Rap from here, or rap down Meadow and Spicer (top rap of the latter is a tree).

Location 

Take the trail to Duck Wall. Where the trail meets the wall (at the large right-facing corner), trend right on a treed ledge system. The trail should have a fixed line near the start, and another one near the end (which goes up to Meadow and Spicer). The route starts just before this second fixed line.

Protection 

Single rack to 3" doubles of BD sizes 1-3. You can place a 4" but a 3" will also work. Include a selection of nuts.


Photos of Little Fire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Little Fire from the base. P1 comes ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Little Fire from the base. P1 comes ...
Rock Climbing Photo: First all gear lead of pitch four Per Alexander
First all gear lead of pitch four Per Alexander
Rock Climbing Photo: Three new pitches to Little Fire.
Three new pitches to Little Fire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Corner on P2 of Little Fire (10b/c).
Corner on P2 of Little Fire (10b/c).

Comments on Little Fire Add Comment
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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 6, 2013

I added the FA info.

But, do you want the route removed because P3 hasn't yet been done? I'm a little confused about who posted the route.

John had a great picture of it and some comments, but now that stuff has been deleted.

Right now, there is no info on the location, so it is a little confusing about whether or not to climb the route.
By Ashort
From: Tacoma, WA
Jul 20, 2015

Got on this over the weekend. Only made it to the top of pitch 2 due to the heat baking us. Pitch 2 is super fun, and not as hard as it looks. Thanks Derek for your hard work putting this up, it's a gem. Hope to get up there and do the whole route when the temps come down, or wait til later in the day when it gets shade.
By Lolo
Feb 5, 2016

I only did p1 and p2. Followed p1, lead p2. P1 felt more like 5.7 to me. P2 was definitely 5.10, not easier than it looks. Cruxes are the Crack to get to the roof, and few moves before the anchors. I dealt with bad rope drag from not choosing my placements accordingly before the roof. Besides that, fun fun fun. Stoked to try it again.
By Nate Redon
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 3, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

We did pitches 1 - 4 yesterday. I had read about the removal of the bolts on P4 (only the hangers were removed) but didn't expect the lack of gear in the final section to the belay (it's there, it's just not great). I ended up pulling a piece and falling over the roof. We bailed from here, climbed meadow and spicer, and then rapped the route to get all our gear back.

- 2 raps with a 70m will get you down from the very top.
- P3 is dirty but climbable
- Everything else is great, make sure that you are ready for the spiciness of P4
- I would recommend linking P1/P2 and P4/P5

For a fun, mellow alternative, Do P1-P3 and then go out right from the belay and climb the second pitch of meadow and spicer to the top (look for bolts and a slabby crack).
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Apr 4, 2016

Thanks for the suggestions Nate.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 13, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

we also skipped the 4th pitch, finished on Meadow Spicer.

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