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Monsters from the Id
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Little Demon 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ward Smith 12/95
Page Views: 780
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007

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No hands rest.

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The farthest route left at the Monster's crag start up what seems like an easy 5.10 which at the top turns in to a super tricky 5.11....

You end up in a weird corner/roof thing using really weird awkward beta to gain the chains.... The crux really is quite cool, but a few cool moves won't make a route classic.... Not a bad warm up for the harder stuff since the crux is short and at the top....

Somewhat typical of the left side routes at this crag, not too memorable but kinda interesting....

Location 

Farthest left route at Monsters from the Id...

Protection 

4 bolts to anchor.


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Rock Climbing Photo: wider shot of the route
wider shot of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: The finally funkiness on this Little Demon...
The finally funkiness on this Little Demon...

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By Evan Meltzer
Jun 30, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Not sure if anyone has tried using the sloper to the right of that heinous crimp, but I thought it worked a lot better that way. Also, the beginning felt a lot easier than 5.10 climbing for me.
By ben324 Solon
Aug 10, 2015

I'd love to see someone do this the techy 11c way. I just dyno'd from the flake to the slopey/sharp rail to a ways above it. It felt much easier to me...

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