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Little Cottonwood 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, Alpine
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Bill Patton
Page Views: 1,287
Submitted By: eddysamson on Jun 29, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Searching for one of the indents on the arete

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

Start low on the arrete under the bulge and climb the arrete into the jugs for the top out. Tricky beta to get the jugs.

UPDATE 7/29: Sometime in the last week the huge jug that makes the last hard move broke off. It left behind a good sized incut crimp rail use this and a pinch above to get to the jugs now. Likely V7-8 range now.

Location 

Located on the large roadside boulder across from the Shark's Fin boulder. Its around the left side by the pockety boulder with Chuff on it.

Protection 

pads


Photos of Little Cottonwood Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sizing up the reachy first move
Sizing up the reachy first move
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun start
BETA PHOTO: Fun start

Comments on Little Cottonwood Add Comment
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By eddysamson
Jun 29, 2014

This climb is featured in this video:
By ferrells
Jan 11, 2015

this video is really good!
By Bill Patton 1
From: Underhill
Jun 15, 2015

The original line stays true to the actual arete and requires holding an open hand sloper with the right hand, and doing a sort of bicycle move with the right heel higher on the edge than the left - which backsteps below on the arete. If you can get the balance point just right you can then free up the left hand (which has been on the underside small crimp) and statically grab the high jug slot with the left. I had to do it static since I had only a small pad and no spotters. After a pretty good fall I went out and bought my first good crash pad. I've seen most recent ascents either do a huge dyno grab with the right hand for the high bucket or use a series of slightly better edges just above the arete proper. For a true send - has to be static :-)
By Graham O.
Oct 10, 2016

Cool problem, super burley!
By anna.gutwin
From: Burlington, VT
Feb 10, 2017

Another beta video :)
By Peter nichols
Jul 29, 2017

Welp, we need another vid of the beta because the exit jug is no more. Anyone know what it goes at now?
By eddysamson
Jul 29, 2017

Yeah I saw that today, was about to post but you beat me to it! I always thought it was a hard 6 so its at least a 7 now with the possibility of 8. The break left a nice incut crimp that you should be able to still use and then there is a quartz pinch above that. I'll try to shoot video of it tomorrow
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Jul 31, 2017
rating: V7 7A+

I was able to repeat this after the break and it's definitely a bit harder now. Felt around V7 to me. Still a good climb just slightly more sustained and maybe a new crux move for some of you.

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