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Little Buddy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brad Johnson / Mike Carville / John Robinson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,339
Submitted By: mike carville on Mar 16, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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No overnight camping on PG&E property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

fun slab climbing, 2 cruxes come on lower third of route

Location 

right side of slab

Protection 

bolts


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By mike carville
May 13, 2014

John Robinson says this is the best route in California, maybe the United States, no the world.
By Taylor Currier 1
From: South Lake Tahoe, California
Sep 25, 2014

I say this route is harder than 5.10a. Maybe 10c. But still the best in the world...
By Bill Price
Feb 1, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route but upper half not so good. 10a max but tricky.
By Beau Fabry
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Bit confused by this guy, is this route 4 on this photo mountainproject.com/v/10919418... listed as a 5.11a? Whatever it was I climbed felt a lot harder than 5.10a
By grabski
From: N California
May 23, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An updated version of the hand-written photo has this route listed correctly here . The old version linked previously (and now removed) did have this listed as 11a unnamed. I vote 10b, though I could see one saying 10c. Either way good stuff.
By Brad J
Dec 5, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

When the route was new and dirty I thought it was harder. Now that it's cleaned up from use the grade is probably 10b/c. Depends on how tall you are. Isn't that frequently the case....:-)
By mike carville
Dec 16, 2016

Keep in mind that Brad red points all of his new routes after brushing/cleaning, bolting all day in the sun, without eating or drinking, and then puts on his worst shoes to send/rate the climb. I was there on this route and that's exactly what happened with the grade:)!!!
By Brad J
Dec 17, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If I didn't do it that way I wouldn't have an excuse for when I flail miserably on those new climbs. Mike, we need to finish up the new climb on the Fortress. I figure it might go at 5.17a but consensus will probably be somewhere in the 11d/12a range.:)))

I just go with what JR says, cuz he's the only guy I know older than me. If he says this is the best climb on the planet I'm all in.
By mike carville
Dec 26, 2016

:)

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