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Little Buckaroo 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matthew Fienup & Jesse Groves
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,133
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jun 30, 2009

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Jesse Groves on Little Buckaroo, at Wheeler Gorge.


Sustained, sequential slab climbing on solid rock. The route heads straight up for four bolts, traverses left for 10 feet and then continues straight up to the top.

The first crux is passing the 2nd bolt, on tiny crimps. The route's true crux is passing the 6th bolt--stay directly over the bolt for full value.


The line of bolts just left of Blush.


9 bolts (Fixe Triplex & 1/2" Rawls), bolted anchor with Supershuts.

Photos of Little Buckaroo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse Groves follows Little Buckaroo during the ro...
Jesse Groves follows Little Buckaroo during the ro...

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By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 30, 2009

In terms of difficulty, Little Buckaroo is harder than Blush, is comparable to Exodus (if you follow that route's last bolt), and would probably only be 10c in Josh or Yosemite.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 9, 2009

A nice addition to the area. Good work, guys!
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Aug 9, 2009

While this route just barely squeezes between two other routes, its moves are distinct, engaging, and quite memorable. I'm surprised this line has gone unnoticed for so long. Beware grabbing any holds on the "roof" above the third and fourth bolts, as the rock quality is not inspiring.

I'm guessing Mike and I have the third ascent?

Just kidding...
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 10, 2009

Believe it or not, when Jesse and I climbed this route, we were not even high enough that we could've touched the roof had we wanted to. We traversed below the third and fourth bolts. This also means that we did not clean any of the loose rock above the roof.

And the rock felt like Yosemite granite compared to the Fortress ;)

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