REI Community
G.o.T Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Little Boy" T 
Balls Deep T,S 
Enola Gay T 
Frostfangs S 
Gift, The S 
Just the Tip T 
Long Claw S 
Needle S 
Reek T,TR 
Reynold's Rap T 
Stormborn (Sunspear var.) T 
Sunspear S 
Tower of the Hand T 
Wall, The S 

"Little Boy" 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Lance Milo Cagle
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Milo on Nov 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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C. Reynolds on Little Boy.

Description 

Dihedral on arete. Shorter and easier than the other G.O.T. routes. If this one was 30 feet longer, It would be a 4 star route. Beautiful chocolate brown dihedral up to a block. Traverse right into a second dihedral, take this up to a roof, that is avoided by climbing on the right hand wall. Super fun!

Location 

Follow trail to G.O.T. proper. Scoot around to the right for Balls deep thru "Little Boy". This is the farthest route on G.O.T front face. This route actually faces North and shares the same arete as Enola gay.

Protection 

6 bolts. Single rack to 3".


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By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 22, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice rock, but minus one star for bolting the cracks.

Definitely cross to the right underneath that giant detached block about half way up and don't place any cams behind it. Don't even think about liebacking straight up the left side of it. A whipper onto a #3 Camalot in the crack behind that block would almost certainly dislodge it. That thing is not held on by much, belayer beware!

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