Little Blue Doctors
||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
|Original: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Hudgel, Huggins, and co on TR, B. Gillett and K. Younge bolted and RP'ed|
|Season: ||spring through fall. careful crossing the creek in summer.|
|Page Views: ||362|
|Submitted By: ||slim on Sep 12, 2011 with updates
from Ken Duncan|
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Little Blue Doctors climbs a nice, almost vertical, granite face on the shady west side of Area 51. Begin just right of a large pine tree and crimp your way up a continuous maze of thin holds and interesting sequences. One of the cruxes is trying to decide whether to stay on the right or the left side of a slight vertical ripple. I found the climbing to be pretty shoulder intensive for how un-steep the climbing was due to a lot of overhead sidepulling. The climbing eases up briefly. Try to catch a rest just before difficult climbing as the route rolls over the right side of the arete onto an easy face. It is a really good route.
Move around the right to the west side of Area 51. There is a nice crack on the arete, and just to the right of this crack are 2 bolted routes. Little Blue Doctors climbs the right hand bolt line, just to the right of a large pine tree.
Approximately 8 bolts. Stick clip the first one (and possibly the 2nd, or have a long draw pre-hung on it).
By Dana Prosser
Sep 21, 2014
Super technical and crimpy! My friend wore off his fingerprints on this one (kinda sharp).