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Stony Clove - West Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Climax T,TR 
Curtain, The T 
Entertainer, The T,TR 
Exit Stage Left T 
Gurgler, The 
Ice Capades T,TR 
Little Black Dike 
Off Stage 
Ron's Gully T,TR 
Them That Die Are The Lucky Ones T,TR 
Workshop, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Little Black Dike 

WI4

   
Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 90'
Original: WI4 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,058
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Dec 20, 2013  with updates from Joao Bras-Jorge

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Little Black Dike, February 2013

Description 

Dead vertical start gets to a small rest about halfway up, then a bit lower angle for last 30 ft.
Rock Climbing Photo: Marty Molitoris on Little Black Dike, Stony Clove ...
Marty Molitoris on Little Black Dike, Stony Clove in December.

Location 

Between Spiral Staircases and the Entertainer. The massive right-facing corner will be the sign you're in the right place.

Protection 

There are two trees above the climb as noted in the comments below. The highest tree anchor requires a 70m rope for descent.


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By Gunkiemike
Jan 30, 2014

Two options for anchor tree up top: 1) step right to the tree close to the lip. 2) continue straight up past roots for 25 ft beyond the top of the ice. This tree provides a better located rope for the second or subsequent TR. BUT a 70m rope is REQUIRED.

If the mud isn't frozen solid, either of these finishes will be extremely insecure.
By Michael C
From: New Jersey
Dec 29, 2014

12-23-2014, new rap anchor. top-out and on the right hand side there's a purple static rope at the tree (it is also connected to a larger tree behind it).
By James Maughan
From: Burnt Hills NY
Feb 4, 2015

A 60m rope was just long enough for us to rap from the tree straight up from the lip.
By Kurtz
Jan 11, 2017

As of 1/10/17, all comments above are still correct. The rap station to climbers right is surrounded by precarious rocks that might not be frozen in place. Very sketchy IMHO! We used the tree station directly above the route and just barely made it with a single 60m. Had to downclimb one move. Another party used a rap station atop the rock prow to climbers left that got them down with a single 60m.

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