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Willow Springs South
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Unsorted Routes:

Little Black Book 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,784
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The line that we followed to the top.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 - start under a roof problem off the ground (crux) into a giant open book, make your way left
into another crack through a bulge.

Location 

Start around the corner left of Pillar Talk.
Decend: Rap off the anchor on top of Sleeper with
two ropes.

Protection 

SR


Photos of Little Black Book Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The rope to the left is the line that I followed f...
BETA PHOTO: The rope to the left is the line that I followed f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Little Black Book is the corner system just to the...
BETA PHOTO: Little Black Book is the corner system just to the...

Comments on Little Black Book Add Comment
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By cassondra
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

We bouldered past the start and belayed from the bottom of the huge crack to reduce rope drag.On a very windy day, this made a nice cozy belay spot. At the top, this route shares the same belay with Senior Moment. There is one move near the top that seems a bit harder than 5.4. At this time, there are webbing and rings at the top on a stout bush. If one has a single 70m rope, a rappel can be made from Sleeper that just makes it to the ground with rope stretch. Additionally, these routes can all be walked off to the left of N plus ultra. There are a number of cairns marking the walk-off south past the Room With a View. I believe these to be marking a hiking trail as well as the walk-off. There are one or two almost 4th class moves on this walk-off, and just enough exposure to cause significant injury in the case of a misstep.
By Tony Whitney
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This route is a lot of fun. It has a couple of moves that seem just a little hard for 5.4, but it protects well enough to zipper it up. The hardest move will be the start if the cheater tree ever goes away. When faced with a choice to go right towards the corner or left through a small bulge at about 25 feet, go left through the bulge. It is a long route and used all but about 6 feet of my 60m rope. There are rap rings on a stout bush on top, but the crack at the top seems like a real rope eater. We rappelled from the top of sleeper which was a much better choice. You definitely need two ropes. My 70m rope would not have made it even with rope stretch.