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Little Big Horn 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: David Gutzman, Ron Hicks
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 178
Submitted By: David Gutzman on Sep 15, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Straight up through the Big Horn! Vertical fun on solid flakes!


10 feet right of General George Custer. Look up for the obvious "Big Horn"!


5 bolts. Anchors on top.

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From: SLC, UT
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Lots of fun on flakes. There is a massive loose flake, not massively loose, but massive in size, about 3/4 of the way up. It is discolored, black.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 21, 2015

There is currently a massive belayer killer wedged in right next to the 3rd or 4th bolt. It wiggles and will probably come out with tools. We tried to scratch an X on it. Be cautious.
By PeterSLenz
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 19, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with the AJP and Garret. The moves are fun, but there are numerous loose flakes peppered on this route (in addition to the one mentioned previously.) Someone is likely to pull one of these off and bean his/her belayer. Given that the route is one of the easiest on the wall, it is likely to attract inexperienced climbers. This is a recipe for an accident, hence my "bomb," rating. Test your holds well, and have your helmeted belayer standing well off to the side, if you must climb this one.
By Graden Swett
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 20, 2017

Well, its 2017 now and that block is still there and is still loose. It seems pretty wedged in there, upon closer inspection it looks like it has a pretty sizeable ledge holding it in place and the whole chunk of this climbs namesake resting against it from the other side.
There was also another, smaller hold on the way up that was pretty loose, on your way up to Big X. You don't need either to complete the route.
The route, although the flakes are thin, is incredibly fun. Pull, lightly, hand over hand until you reach the dihedral for some stemming action! Awesomely positive holds to the anchor - uniquely awesome 8!
Wear a helmet!

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