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Alchemy S 
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Left of Spire T 
Little Arete T,S 
Riding Rough on Helen Reddy S 
Spider Monkey S 
Spire, The T,S 
Stemin' Monkey T,S 
Unruly Macaque S 
Well-disciplined Monkey S 

Little Arete 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Jones
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: Scott Jones R n R on Mar 4, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Picture of the Little Arete, submitted by Scott Jo...


Fun, with some exciting exposure. V1+ (or easy V2) boulder problem up the arete.

This climb heads up under the arete and around to the right of it up to where you can clip the bolt on the arete by stemming across while holding onto face holds on the face to the right of the arete. After clipping the bolt, climb up 1 or 2 feet and traverse left onto the arete and then climb up the center of the arete.

Another variation is to keep traversing left from the bolt and go up the left side of the arete placing a couple of cams on the way to the chains. Bolts from Stemin' Monkey will be to your left.

Another variation is just to follow the crack to the right of the arete up all the way and then traverse left to the chains shared by Little Arete and Stemin' Monkey.


This is the little arete to the right of the big overhang with other routes on it. You can see the bolt on the arete.


Trad gear. The crux is protected by the one bolt. Shares anchors with Stemin' Monkey.

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By Terminal Rookie
From: Salida, Colorado
Mar 6, 2017

Excellent exposure during the heel hook I'd heard so much about. I placed a .75 and 1 down where the "roof" starts and you climb right.(speaking in BD C4's) If you zip it up tight it takes a .75, 2, and 1 before you reach over and clip the bolt. Once over the arete you can plug a #3 to protect the traverse/reach over to the chains. Bring a runner if you don't like rope drag.

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