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Litmus Test 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 2,515
Submitted By: Alec LaLonde on Oct 14, 2007  with updates from John Ross

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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Tara on Litmus Test Photo by David Crane: dcranep...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Solid 5.10 climbing directly up the face gives way to a nice resting stance. Shake out, and pull a series of gnarly moves to get over the left part of the well-protected roof.


7 bolts and a 2-bolt chained anchor


On the north face of Division, just to the right of Physical Therapy and Teenagers in Heat. The first bolted line right of the tree.

Photos of Litmus Test Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Litmus Test
Litmus Test
Rock Climbing Photo: Scoping the roof, on the redpoint.
Scoping the roof, on the redpoint.

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By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Nov 11, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

2 distinct sections. the first section goes 11a, then you get a rest then get psyched pulling the roof. commit to crimpers and try to find some good feet - its a nice boulder problem. exhilerating. you can breath at the top.
By WasatchChic
From: Salt Lake, Utah
Aug 6, 2008

Good first 11c as there is one small crux section.
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 26, 2011

Very fun climb on a beautiful line. Committing to small crimps at the roof is the trick, until you can find decent feet.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 19, 2013

Ryan is right. If you find the feet right for the roof moves it's not that bad. Psyched to onsite this baby back in the day.
By Logan Bradford
From: Springville, UT
Sep 9, 2017
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I had a hard time finding what was 11c about this route. I give it 11b at best, more like 11a. That roof is a BLAST to pull, and yes, very well protected. If someone is looking for an 11c first tick, this is the route to do it on.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 10, 2017

Logan- sometimes routes are graded based on endurance, and other times power, and sometimes both. If a route's crux is a well defined boulder problem with relatively easy climbing otherwise, it receives a difficulty grade based on it's boulder problem and is then converted to a route grade. Here is the basic conversion: V1=11a. V2=11b. V3=11c. V4=12a/b. V5=12c. V6=12d. V7=13a. V8=13b. V9=13c/d. V10=14a. V11=14b. V12=14c. Etc...

These "routes with a boulder problem" are the easiest ticks at their grades for most modern climbers who are far more powerful on average and with comparatively poorer endurance than climbers were 15-20 years ago.

It's still technically 11c, but yes, it will "feel" easier to redpoint than let's say... Liscense to thrill 11c because The later has easier boulder sections but its quite a bit more involved. The overall output of effort will feel easier for most these days than Litmus Test. However if someone can boulder V2 and not V3 they could still redpoint Liscense, but not Litmus.

I could also write an explanation of how endurance modifies route grades.

If it seems confusing, it is. It is an imperfect system and most people don't understand it. It's made even more confusing by numerous "local areas" where the grading scale is suppressed or fluffed- this really skews the perception of the folks that learn in these areas, and this then spills over to other areas and mucks things up even more.
By Jeremy Lubkin
From: Boulder, CO
5 days ago
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

New mussy hooks courtesy of ASCA. 3-star route all day long!

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