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Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 
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Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 
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Cleft, The T 
Cosmos S 
Dead Bird Crack T 
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Holiday Ordeal TR 
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Melvin S 
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Ordeal T 
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Portent T,TR 
Power Point S 
Racing Stripes T,S 
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Stupendous Man T 
Swallow Crack T,S 
Trauma T 
Trial S 
Verdict (direct), The S 
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Clint Cummins, Dennis Erik Strom 3/1992
Page Views: 655
Submitted By: Ian G. on May 10, 2009  with updates from Kyle Queener

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Two cruxes. Clip the first bolt and pull on to a ledge. After the second bolt climb and make a very tenuous third clip. Fight the pump and clip the fourth. LOTS of loose rock. Test everything before you commit to weighting it. Guidebook says "you can't see the anchors from the ground." Well, after clipping the fifth bolt, you've got another 35 feet of 5.6 climbing to the anchors. Easy but terrifying on crap rock like this. Options for dubious slung knobs exist but be prepared mentally for the final run up to the anchors.


Left of Stupendous Man and right of The Cleft.


five bolts to rap rings.

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By ascender30
Feb 21, 2011

Concur that the lower section is tough, but fun. Yet the runout to anchors, although easy 5.6, is on typically VERY suspect Pinnacles. Any slip off this un-protected section, and you would scrape (painfully) down and over the bulge, then fall to the ground no matter what your belayer did. Why not put a bolt about half-way through this runout?

I wouldn't repeat the climb.
By adam14113
From: San Francisco, CA
May 26, 2013

I did the climb yesterday .. the run out section needs a bolt due to decking potential.
By Mike Tsuji
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2013

Climbed this with Adam, once you're above the last bolt the route trends slightly right on the better looking holds. I went left at first and got into an area where it was clear people had been pulling off chunks of rock. Not a great place to be when you're going to hit the deck if a hold breaks.
By Linnea Williams
Jan 12, 2015

First ascent is by the fabulous and slightly madcap Clint Cummins, which explains the runout at the top.

And the first bulge is super tough for short people, but doable with the manky little right-hand sidepull.
By Kyle Queener
From: Bishop, California
Apr 27, 2015

FA: Clint Cummis, Dennis Erik Strom 3/1992

If you see either of these names in the FA section of the guide then you know what to expect. Bold and classic Pinnacles climbing.
By Austin Donisan
From: San Mateo, California
Feb 16, 2016

There is a quick link on the last bolt if you want to bail before the runout.

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