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Dihedrals Area
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Black and White John and Mary T 
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Equipment Overhang T 
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Fallen Angel Variation T 
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Lisa's Shoulder T 
Premature T 
Satan's Corner T 
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Stem the Tide S 

Lisa's Shoulder 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: FA: E. Eliason, D. Raymond, 1969, FFA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,331
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 2) Black and White John and ...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Lisa's Shoulder is the first major dihedral left of Satan's Corner. It is a fun gear-protected face climb. It is given a R in the guidebooks, but protection can be found to make it reasonably safe. Probably the most dangerous part of the route can be avoided. The first part of the climb is a dihedral without a crack. Instead, start by climbing up a difficult bulging hand crack just to the left which is about 10 feet long. Then pull up through bulges on the face to the start of a thin seam. Climb up this seam placing small cams and clipping a bolt. This face is thin with good feet. Then finish up the airy arete right for 15' to the anchor.

Rap with one rope off of the chain anchors.


One bolt, standard rack with small cams (tcu or alien)

Photos of Lisa's Shoulder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: J-sexy workin the crux on Lisa's fiiiiiine sho...
J-sexy workin the crux on Lisa's fiiiiiine sho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting to the top of Lisa's shoulder.
Getting to the top of Lisa's shoulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off Lisa's
Rapping off Lisa's
Rock Climbing Photo: Dihedrals area
BETA PHOTO: Dihedrals area

Comments on Lisa's Shoulder Add Comment
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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route!!!The stemmy lower crux can be marginally protected with a long sling over the shallow bulge in the corner. The airy finish is well protected with a 3 camalot.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 30, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This wasn't as good as I was expecting. I would almost feel better with the small gear that would work over that bolt.
By tenesmus
Apr 28, 2007

Nate, go on a hot sunny day and it won't feel like 5.8+. I think the handcrack way protects really well but it might make it harder.
By L. Hamilton
May 3, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

I agree, the hand crack protects well but felt more like 9+, harder than the upper face. It might make it a better route too, adding a couple of small overhangs. The upper face and arete finish are just fun, plenty of interest for such a short pitch.
By Ben Folsom
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great route on really good rock. The direct way down low is pretty fun. The upper face is superb. Protects nicely!
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is an awesome route. The top section is exposed and requires some thin face moves. Protects well.

+1 to the long sling over the shallow bulge in the corner on the stemmy lower crux.
By dnaiscool
Apr 15, 2015

I planted a couple of "0" TCUs for that crux step up off the ledge on to the slab proper. The left toe jam here was key for me. Kinda scary, indeed, and that's what made this climb so special.

My Rack:
Camalot (single) #1,2,3;
Triples TCU from 0-2;
a fist'o DMM Peanuts;
draws and a double runner to break out on the top hand traverse.

Best be a 5.10 climber to feel secure on the on-sight...or pump up your game, tighten up those edging shoes and go for it!! This is a very satisfying lead, and the hand traverse at the top is way cool.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 11, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

The upper face protects very well, probably R without all the modern trinkets. The direct start in the dihedral is probably the only PG section with a move to get established below the crack.

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