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Liquor Mart 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Chip Ruckgaber, Dan Hare, 1984
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: Stefan Griebel on Apr 25, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Description 

    This exciting pitch is an alternative to the 5.9+ P4 of X-M and is actually more in character with the "sporty" P3 of X-M. It's even protected by similar sketchball, rusty, Eldo pins, but at least there are 3 instead of only 2....

    From the belay atop X-M's P3, look at the first dihedral to the right of Outer Space's P1. This is Liquor Mart. X-M continues along the broken strata up and right, while Liquor Mart goes straight up the dihedral. This is characterized by compression moves, difficult clips, and a crux move left to get established in the dihedral itself. A few moves above the 3rd and final lousy pin (not including the stray one way up and right) more gear can be had; the climbing also gets significantly easier. Finish and belay on the large, sloping Outer Space ramp.

    I recommend linking P3 of X-M with this rather than building a belay at the sloping shelf at the guidebook finish of X-M-P3. That way, there is even more rope out to soften your fall onto the manky pins!

    Location 

    This ascends the first dihedral to the right of Outer Space's P1.

    Protection 

    Single cams from 00 to #3 and long slings.


    Comments on Liquor Mart Add Comment
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    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    Apr 26, 2016

    Great route. As for the name, Chip told me after they did the FA they asked Derek what they should name it, and with out any hesitation, Derek proclaimed "Liquor Mart!" Club salute for Sheaf Stout.
    By WadeM
    From: Golden, Co
    Apr 26, 2016
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

    Cool route and fun movement. Lower section definitely has some sporty moves.

    Pins at the crux (there are 3) held a fall as of April 2016. Really unique movement for Eldo.

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