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Liquid Sky 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chip Chase, Jeff Achey
Page Views: 7,325
Submitted By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jul 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Kent "The Sender" disappears into the ma...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


The Creeks most classic squeeze.

P1. Splitter thin fingers up to hands and even some chimney. Gear belay at the base of a slot. (5.11)

P2. Fists up a slot and through a bulge to a gear belay at a stance. (5.9)

P3. Offwidth in a corner to an optional belay/ bail anchor, and then tunnel and squeeze up through the back of the roof. (5.11+/.12-) At the top of the squeeze a fist traverse left regains the final chimney of "Lightning Bolt Crack". Very size dependent.


Starts 25' left of "Lightning Bolt Crack"


Tcu's through #4 big-bro.

Photos of Liquid Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the roof.

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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Dec 14, 2012

good thread on additional beta
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Jul 19, 2013

I have no clue how many times Liquid Sky has been climbed or how frequently, but to add to this thread and help out those gunning for it (or dissuade them)...Two friends linked up Liquid Sky (the leader onsighted it) and then Lightning Bolt Cracks in a day. See pages 49-50: Pretty impressive. I imagine most would agree.
By Pamela Shanti Pack
Nov 11, 2013

Super psyched to have gone out the roof on Pitch 3 of Liquid Sky today rather than through the squeeze chimney. I started in the squeeze and horizontally sidewinded out the roof proper, did a quick inversion at the constriction toward the lip and then pivoted right side up to get into the vertical past the lip. It was scary. Most exposed inversion of my life and really hard to place gear.
By Matthew Ryan Jones
From: Minturn, CO
Dec 5, 2013

You are such a beast Pam. Totally inspiring.
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2015

Any more specific gear beta?

Any more specific person-size beta on the squeeze? The Harding Slot on Astroman was tight but I fit, same with the 5.9 X pitch on The Flakes in the Black Canyon.
By Nate Redon
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 25, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Heads up: One of the bolts below the squeeze is loose and pulling out. The remaining bolt and drilled angle seem good.

We thought that #5s were useless on this climb contrary to the topo.

I think a good rack would be:
- 1x .2,.3,.4,2,3,6, green bro, blue bro
- 2x .5,.75,1,4.

A valley giant would protect the lieback below the squeeze (and maybe the squeeze too?).

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