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Lipton T 
Lipton Direct T 



Type:  Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400'
Original: WI7 [details]
FA: Carlos Wagner, Franz Fischer 1995
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Ian Hanson on Nov 7, 2013

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World Classic! Lipton is sustained and acrobatic and is a very serious undertaking that should only be attempted by experienced climbers. The first pillar falls down at least twice during the season so stay alert and pay attention to conditions.

Pitch 1:
Start inside the sometimes mixed groove and climb on steep (80*) thin ice up to the belay under the great roof (45m)
Pitch 2:
Traverse right out of the roof, using a #2 friend, and gain the ice pillar. Belay under the next roof. (15m)
Pitch 3:
Climb out of the roof and up the ice to a good belay. (25m)
Pitch 4:
Contiue up steep ice until the top. (40m)


At the very end of the upper gorge. Lipton is unmistakable due to its vivid yellow color.


Ice and rock gear. A #2 friend can be useful to protect the first roof.

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