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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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(Total) Psycho! T 
Blue Steel T 
Canary Corner Extension T 
Clear the Deck T 
Clever Lever S 
Dangerous Acquaintances T 
Downpressor Man S 
Evangeline S 
Fire and Ice  T,S 
Gem, The T 
Guardian Saint T 
Guen-Ice  T 
Guenese T 
Hands In The Clouds T,S 
Huck Off T,S 
Kloeberdanz T 
Kloeberdeath/ Candallegro T 
Last Rite T 
Le Toit T 
Le Toit Direct T 
Le Verne T 
Lipsync T,S 
Mean Lean T 
Psycho S 
Rosy Toit T 
Scary Canary T 
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 
Trippin T 
Tubesock Tanline T 
Wasabe S 
Wisdom, The T 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: David Light
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 235
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Apr 8, 2002

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  • Description 

    This is a hybrid/link-up type route but it actually covers some pretty cool terrain and must be one of the most overhung routes in Eldo.

    Start on Kloeberdanz, cranking through the crux 11a roof until you're perched on the slab over the lip. Move up and left onto the hanging arete and clip a bolt.

    Power out the arete to the lip of roof and clip another bolt, then hand traverse left along the good rail at the lip of the roof band. Clip a final bolt and continue left (crux), eventually joining Guenese at the good lieback flakes over the roof.

    Use long draws on this route to prevent rope drag. It's easiest to clean this one on top-rope.


    Some small gear for the pillar at the start of Kloeberdanz and TCUs/stoppers for the corner on Guenese.

    Comments on Lipsync Add Comment
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    By Bart Paull
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 16, 2011
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Awesome route, well worth doing. You can get a #0.75 Camalot in the hueco-like feature just before Guenese to protect the final moves into the corner.

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