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Lips and assholes 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 281
Submitted By: Damon Vaughan on Mar 24, 2013

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>


The singular line up the best looking chunk of stone in Last Chance Canyon. This climb is beautiful, and fun too. There is some choss below the roof, that's the only reason it's not 4 stars for me.

The route starts with a powerful boulder problem involving a long pull to an amazing two finger pocket. It doesn't really let up at all except a good rest before the wild undercling slap to surmount the second roof.

Get on this route for the love of God!


The only route on the amazing wall to the left of the hueco cave



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By Damon Vaughan
Mar 24, 2013

Since a lot of these grades probably been consolidated around here, I'll just say I thought this felt like solid 13a. Maybe it's just not my style though? Considerably harder than Ebola and many 12d's and 13a's around the front range.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Apr 6, 2015

Grading standard here isn't vividly clear. I take it all with a grain of salt. Ratings are set to guide me to where I can probably achieve success while being tested. The real glory is the individual route, not the rating, each line holds it's own secret that must be unlocked. I still chase the numbers, but temper it knowing it is impossible to have an absolute standard for such thing.

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