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(c) The North Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Lip Up Fatty T 
Lip Up Fatty, Direct Start T 
North Buttress T 
Stroll Around the Block T 
Tank Mechanic T 
Uneventful, The T 

Lip Up Fatty 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 900', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Christrian Burrell and Brian Gonzalez
New Route: Yes
Season: usual
Page Views: 1,066
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Aug 11, 2007

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Right before the little "cave". The hig...

Description 

Starts on the bottom left edge of the N. Buttress. look for a "wing" shaped flake with a nice crack running through the middle of it. Work your way up more or less in a direct line up to a nice obvious corner with three roofs. After this pitch work up and right to the right of two obvious long cracks. You know you are in the right crack if you have to pass a crazy flake jutting out of the crack. Pass a roof on the left (really cool and exposed) The pitches are long...bring a 60 m at least. Each pitch is fun with varied challenges and the best part...this route is usually totally unoccupied. (North Buttress bad rap I guess).

Protection 

plenty of small sizes (nuts) and a few medium pieces.


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By Tradiban
Jul 17, 2014

The topo in the Vogel+Gaines book is definitely off for a large portion of this buttress. From the "JTree Ledge" for this route I tried to enter the "alcove" as described in the book but it looked totally whack so I continued left past a small tree to bypass a roof with a old nut (with cord) fixed at the base. Pulled the roof (fun and exposed) and wandered a bit left to an obvious exit toward the top.
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Aug 13, 2014

By pigsflyinsd
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 1, 2015

There was a baby rattle snake that started rattling when I stuck a cam into one of the cracks about halfway up. I know there are snakes on Tahquitz but shocked they're still active when it's getting cooler. Almost shit my pants.

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