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Bartizan Wall
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Lion's Share 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Black & Bob Archbold 8/28/80
Page Views: 337
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Oct 5, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Lion's Share 5.10


There are still some secret gems in the Needles. I'm surprised I hadn't heard about this line earlier. If you like a typical needles crack, slightly flaring with solid fingers, hands, fists, some awkwardness, and if you can overlook a tiny section of choss and lichen, then go do this! This climb stays very consistent for the full length with the crux being the roof pull.


This is part of the 'Land of OZ', which is a small gully just behind the Bartizan Wall, to the W. Best to approach from the S, passing on the left side of the Naked Rib. Crack is on E face of the Lions spire with a triangular roof up high. Single 80m makes the rappel, 70m might be really close.


Double rack to BD #3, plus #4
Long slings
Anchor; One new bolt and 1/4" button head with cord and quicklink.

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