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(g) Morning Glory Wall
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Lion's Jaw 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Bauman, Bob Bauman, 1967
Page Views: 6,682
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (171)
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Leading the first pitch of Lion's Jaw, Photo by Da...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is actually a 3 pitch route, but almost no one climbs past the 1st pitch due to the last two pitches being chossy unprotected chimneys. This covers the first pitch, which is a very good route that borders on classic. The first 3/4 of the route is in a solid dihedral. The finish is pulling a small roof that isn't harder than the moves below.


Left side of Morning Glory Wall in a dihedral right of Tammy Baker's Face and the Peanut.


Gear to 1 1/2 inches. Rap Anchors

Photos of Lion's Jaw Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun 5.8 route, protected very well.
Fun 5.8 route, protected very well.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lion's Jaw
Lion's Jaw
Rock Climbing Photo: top rope
top rope
Rock Climbing Photo: fantastic route! my first 5.8 trad lead and will d...
BETA PHOTO: fantastic route! my first 5.8 trad lead and will d...

Comments on Lion's Jaw Add Comment
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By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Jun 1, 2010

Nice, solid 5.8 lead with nuts and chocks. For a first 5.8 gear lead -- it doesn't get much better. Avoid the upper pitches.
By max huecksteadt
From: Boise ID
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This one will eat all the nuts you can take (you might as well not even bring cams). Great beginner trad lead- you can't worry with those bomber finger locks!
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
May 4, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pro is good and you can practically stitch it all the way up to the mini roof.
By kablammajamma
May 4, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

a #1 c4 is perfect to protect the roof; or, for bonus points, use a brown tricam!
By morgoth70
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 17, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Classic Smith dihedral with sustained, fun 5.8 moves with an exciting, stemmy crux. Eats gear, lots of places for a rest if you need it. Don't ruin a great climb by doing the upper pitches.
By Franck Vee
Jul 12, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Good easy trad lead. Protects really well especially if you use both cracks. The roof is a bit intimidating for someone not so used to trad lead (pulling roof on trad isn't something I do often), but it can be protected really well and the move is super easy.

There's always a good stance to place pro coming up soon - so no need to be pumping out trying to place pros on bad stances...

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