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Lion's Head

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Lion's Head Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 700'
Location: 44.99972, -81.23382 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,506
Administrators: Dave Rone, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Raiden on Jun 9, 2014
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Description 

Lion's Head is an outstanding limestone sport climbing destination located in the Bruce Peninsula of Ontario on the Georgian Bay. Climbing at Lion's Head is more involved than typical sport cragging. Routes are often accessed by rappelling in and climbing out. Many of the routes that historically involved hanging belays have now been extended to the ground. There is also a trail at the base of the cliff from which most of the areas can be accessed. A 4th class gulley toward the east end of the cliff provides access to the base of the cliff without rappelling in. Lion's Head is located across the bay from White Bluff.

Getting There 

From the town of Lion's Head, Ontario, head east on Moore St and park at the Bruce Trail parking area. At the end of Moore St there is a paved turnaround area with no parking signs; do not park here. If you park somewhere on Moore St, park on the opposite side from the cottages and be quiet and respectful. From the Bruce Trail parking area, walk east on Moore St about 1500 feet to a dirt road on the right with a gate. Follow the road/trail with blue markers (painted on the trees) for about a half mile. As the dirt road turns right (south), the blue marked trail will head left (north); follow the trail and it will bring you to the edge of the cliff which is the top of Lion's Head. This approach will bring you to the top of the Headspace Wall. An alternative approach heads south out the back of the parking area and loops around, eventually meeting up with the above approach. This approach is quite a bit longer but might be more scenic. See the beta photos on this page for maps of the approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 19.7 miles from here

217 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',65],['2 Stars',66],['1 Star',61],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',4],['5.8',6],['5.9',10],['5.10',54],['5.11',56],['5.12',52],['5.13',20],['>=5.14',4],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lion's Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lion's Head:
Plastic Victory   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport   Latvian Ledge Area
Surf Zone   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport   Latvian Ledge Area
Kiss of the Spider Woman   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   American Bucks / Spider Wom...
Maneline   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Maneline Wall
Nimbus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Nimbus Wall
American Bucks   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   American Bucks / Spider Wom...
The Roaming Gypsies   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   Nimbus Wall
So! You Think You Know Good Kung-Fu?   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   Lady Slipper Wall
The Fin   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   The Fin Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lion's Head

Featured Route For Lion's Head
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out "So! You think you know good Kung...

So! You Think You Know Good Kung-Fu? 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  North America : Canada : ... : Lady Slipper Wall
About 75 feet climber's left from Elmo in Space; climb the right side of the wall up this continuous route. *60m rope required....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Lion's Head Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Trailhead of the Stinger Gulley
BETA PHOTO: Trailhead of the Stinger Gulley
Rock Climbing Photo: Lion's Head approach
BETA PHOTO: Lion's Head approach
Rock Climbing Photo: Lion's Head as seen from the marina in town.
Lion's Head as seen from the marina in town.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lion's Head approach
BETA PHOTO: Lion's Head approach

Comments on Lion's Head Add Comment
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By Myra Stark
Sep 5, 2017
Lost wedding band and engagement ring at Lions Head Look Out while rock climbing around Latvian Ledge. please message if you have found these our missing wedding rings! Thank you very very much! email me at myraann@umich.edu

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