Lion's Head Rock Climbing
32 miles (a little over an hour drive) from Coolin, ID and about 2-1/2 hrs from Spokane:
Take Hwy 2 North to Priest River,ID. Drive North on Hwy 57 (towards Coolin) for 22 miles and turn rt. on Dickensheet Hwy. Drive 5 miles to Coolin and turn rt. on East Shore Road/Cavanaugh Bay Road. Drive 22 miles to Lion's Head Campground. Set your trip odometer to zero at the main entrance to the campground. Continue past the campground for 4.1 miles and turn right onto Idaho State Forest Road #44 (small sign). At 6.6 miles, you will pass the intersection with road #43. Continue straight on 44. At 9.8 mi. you should get a pretty good view of Lion's Head straight ahead. At 10.2 mi. You will cross Abandon Creek and come to a T-junction. Turn right and drive 0.3 miles to a big switchback- park here.
From the hairpin turn, follow the trail Southeast until the flagged climbers path takes off uphill to the left. Follow the pink flagging. The trail will go steeply uphill for 15 minutes- don't miss the turn to the right.
The trail will tend right and uphill for about 15 more minutes, then contour more gently toward Lion's Head. The trail will bring you to the bottom of the talus field below Lion's Head West Peak. Get your bearings here so you can find the trail upon your return (not so easy in the dark, but there are a few cairns and two large snags that make good landmarks). The Lion's Head trail is quite good, and the bushwacking is horrible, so if you aren't on an obvious trail, backtrack and try again.
On the imposing North Face of Lion's Head lies the Inland Northwest's best technical alpine climb, Lion Tamer (5.10c, 6 pitches). It takes the obvious line of weakness up the middle of the face.
The South side has some easier stuff in the 5.4 to 5.8 range and there are also moderate climbs going up the East buttress. The West Face Wall is a really beautiful wall with much good climbing potential. The routes here are 3 pitches or so, and they will be in the sun throughout the afternoon. It's a warm and sunny spot to climb if conditions are too cold for a North Face attempt.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 18.7 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lion's Head
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lion's Head
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lion's Head:
Featured Route For Lion's Head
Lion Tamer 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Idaho
: Lion's Head
: North Face
Lion Tamer is a spectacular climb- In August 2016 the trail has been cleaned up and a bit of gardening has been done, hopefully it will start to see some more lovin'! The rock could use a little more traffic, but the pitches are long and sustained and the movement is super fun. All of the cruxes protect well and could be aided through if need be.1. 55M (5.10c) Start up the obvious chimney- dirty looking, but the climbing is clean and quite physical, old-school 5.9. Aft...[more] Browse More Classics in Idaho
Sep 11, 2016
Does anyone know what the crack/corner system on the west face is like? It looks super fun
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Sep 28, 2016
At the hairpin turn, there is a big sign-thing made of metal and wood. It's a good landmark if you are getting up there after dark!