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(g) Morning Glory Wall
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Lion's Chair 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Phil Dean 1968
Page Views: 2,108
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Dec 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Lion's Chair.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


I only climbed the 11a first pitch, but pitches 3, 4, and 5 I have climbed when doing 'Zebra Zion.' The first pitch is fairly long and gives a good leg pump, but there are plenty of good shakes. The moves that are in the 10c section and which the book says makes a great climb on its own are the hardest. High-stepping is very beneficial. That said, if you make it through to the first set of anchors you should keep going because it's not any more difficult. However the gear sucks through the 11- section and a long fall is pretty much guaranteed if you let don't. Great rock and cool moves.
Pitches 3, 4, and 5 can be checked out on the 'Zebra Zion' link.


The Morning Glory Wall. The dihedral just left of the tree.


There are five bolts on the route, if you clip one of the anchors on top of the 10c section and the bolt one foot above the anchor which has emerged out of the wall about a 1/2 inch. Otherwise, bring a set of nuts, a few small cams (metolious 00-4), and a few medium cams (metolious 6,7,8). Just before the 11- section that the book shows you can place a bomber #4, an okay #00, or a fairly bad small stopper (or all if you want). The bolt that looms above has great holds to clip from, but just make sure you get to them.

Photos of Lion's Chair Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lion's Chair, 1997.
Lion's Chair, 1997.

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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 5, 2008

I think of this as the Vern Steifel Memorial Route. Every time Vern was in the main area he would climb this route, and try to get everyone else in the area to do it too. He really loved this route.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Nov 30, 2009

The crux of the first pitch is clipping the bolt. If you're under 5'10 or have ape index issues it's pretty hard. Once the bolt is clipped, you're golden. If you get sketched about the layback after the second have a much easier just have to look "around."
By Amy Ohran
From: Tuckee, Ca
Jul 9, 2011

not R, very G. Actually, very O.G. go for it.
By another Chad
Feb 23, 2013

The first part of this route (Lion's Chair Start) is graded 5.10c in Watts' book which seems rather cruel.

By Hans Travis
From: Washington
Apr 14, 2017

The 5.10c did seem a bit stiff compared to other routes with tricky stemming moves.

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