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Lionheart 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1150', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: R&M Edwards
Page Views: 217
Submitted By: Justin Skaare on Apr 10, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Route

Description 

An incredible climb. A classic anywhere in the world. Takes a direct line up a series of corner systems. Climbing style ranges from liebacks to chimneying. Every pitch is beautiful and it ends with a magnificent summit on the Abu Aina towers.

P1 - 10a // Easy climbing to a chockstone / roof, go left and continue to a belay.
P2 - 10c // The physical crux, and a fantastic pitch. Fingers, to the lieback crux, to a wide section.
P3 - 10a // A short but sweet pitch. Head right into what looks like an OW, but with sinker deep hands.
P4 - 10a // A couple of .2 and .3 cams can protect the opening face moves, better not to fall. PG-13
P5 - 10c // Another incredible pitch. Chimney upward with calcite deposits for friction.
P6 - 10a // A wild traversing pitch on the melting sandstone that typifies Wadi Rum summits. Sling your first pieces liberally to avoid rope drag through the traverse.
P7 - Easy // Easy slab to the raps below the summit.
P8 - Spicy // Make a few moves upwards, unprotected, for summit views. Carefully downclimb.

Rap the route. Recommended not to skip to rap stations because of the possibility for ropes to get stuck. You need doubles or a tag.

Location 

Leave the town of Wadi Rum towards the desert. Walk for 30 minutes along the base of Jebel Rum until you see a palm near the base of the massif. Once the palm is sited, head right, well before the palm, towards the tourist / Bedouin camp. Scramble up the hill behind the camp. You'll eventually 3rd / 4th class your way through an obvious wormhole/boulder that will lead you to the final portion of the approach. Follow cairns to the base of the climb, passing a short 4th class section.

Tony Howard's guidebook gives the approach at 30 - 45 minutes, maybe if you're at a full sprint. If you're walking from town leave at least 90 minutes for the approach.

Protection 

BD double rack through #2 and single #3. Some may want wider gear.


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