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2Trad4U T,S 
Day of Atonement T 
Eternal Buffalo, The T 
Freak Freely T 
Happy Crack T 
Hollow Victory T 
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 
Lonesome Winner, The T 
Naughty and Nice T 
Oracle T 
Solid Gold T 
Urbaby's Daddy T 
Wushu Roof T 

Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson @1985 - Bryan Smith FFA 2010
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Naughty & Nice, Lion of Judah, Day of Atonement, H...


Start just left of Day of Atonement and head up a shattered left-facing shallow corner crack. Continue directly up a minor corner/chimney feature until you can traverse left under an overhanging block to gain the anchor on the top. 2nd route done here.


Gear to 3".

Photos of Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The only placement I found between the ledge and t...
The only placement I found between the ledge and t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Silas working out (what we found to be) the crux.
Silas working out (what we found to be) the crux.

Comments on Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) Add Comment
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By bryans
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Actually, Lion of Judah stops at the 30-35 foot ledge with two dihedrals above it, and no anchor. The left side dihedral is the finish to "Naughty and Nice" and goes at 10d. The right side dihedral I called "Sugar and Spice" after I rapped in, trundled loose blocks, and freed it on lead. It goes at slightly spicy 10a. Jim and Mike may have aided one or both dihedrals, but did not free either.

A note for leaders and their followers: to reach an anchor while leading "Lion of Judah/Sugar and Spice," upon reaching the obvious minor roof around 60 feet you must either traverse even further left to the "Naughty and Nice" anchor (your second must be solid at 5.8/9 or else a swing could be ugly), or else climb around the minor roof to reach the "Day of Atonement" anchor on the right. I hope this helps clarify the relationship between these three routes.
By Healyje
From: PDX
Sep 3, 2010

Sugar and Spice is the name everyone uses for this line - it finishes up and right to the anchor it now shares with 'Day of Atonement' and there is an intermediate pin on the way to it. Here Bryan and I part company - the top out to the anchor is not a big deal at all in my opinion and don't feel there is any need for a PG-13 rating.
By Topher Dabrowski
Jun 6, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

SUGAR & SPICE has good gear but the cams need to be placed carefully as the cracks are flared with only specific spots being parallel.

0.3-3.0 Cams, 2x 0.75
Set of Nuts
By BrianWilson
From: Brush Prairie, Washington
Apr 18, 2016

I felt it was a really fun 10a with just a little limited pro section in the middle (which was remedied with a small offset). Just keep your eyes open.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Apr 18, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The hand crack start to the ledge is stellar. From there, it's a ramble for about 40' with very minimal protection, the best being a shallow flared pod that you might or might not get a reliable #.75 into. At the flake below the roof, there is a decent #.4 placement which can be backed up with a (offset?) nut nearby. Pulling over this and onto the slab is a really fun sequence. The route itself is good, but definitely not a great choice if you're working for the grade.
By Healyje
From: PDX
May 11, 2017

Hmmm. Gotta say the route protects well for the entire pitch if you are a competent trad leader at the grade...

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