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Linville Gorge Recommendations
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Aug 30, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of me at Catslab
I will have 1 day (maybe a second 1/2 day) to do some climbing at the end of September. I would like to only bring a single 70M with me but can bring 2 ropes if needed.

Looking for input on the following climbs.

Bumblebee butress
Paradise Alley
Dopey Duck
Maginot Line
Little Corner
The Daddy

Anything I am missing 5.9 and under?

I am leaning towards Paradise Alley (the 1st pitch looks amazing). Plus some other stuff right there as well if we climb fast enough and have good weather.

Also I was going to pick up the North Carolina Select Climbs Guide, are any of these in the latest addition? I don't mind wandering around a bit to find stuff but I would rather be climbing.
Parker Wrozek
Joined Mar 30, 2012
153 points
Aug 30, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Hawksbill
If you climb Paradise Alley, you don't necessarily have to pick another nearby route to do as your second route. You will be going to the top of the cliff, and then most folks descend the same gully that leads to most of the routes. At the bottom of the gully you can turn right to head back toward the base of Paradise and Dopey Duck or go left to other stuff. Construction Job is good. Straight and Narrow may be .10-, but the two cruxes are isolated, well protected, and it's maybe less pumpy than Dopey Duck. Two ropes are unnecessary unless you're one of those who likes climbing on half ropes.

If you head to Table Rock/Amphitheater instead, you could do Mummy and/or The Prow in addition to The Daddy. Or Good Heavens. Many consider Mummy better than The Daddy. I think 5.6 is fair for both of them. White Lightning would be a decent route for your half day.

If you were just climbing for one day, I'd say skip planning to hike in camping stuff to the top of Shortoff. It's a longish hike uphill. Just show up early.

All those routes are in the Select book.
Brian Abram
From Celo, NC
Joined Oct 17, 2007
418 points
Aug 30, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Pit BBQ
I agree with Brian's thoughts. If you end up having the half day, a great choice of itineraries would be:

Day 1:
Shortoff option - Construction Job, top out, back down the gulley, then Dopey Duck (both 5.9+). Excellent day of climbing, and you could squeeze in a third climb or more if you're enterprising.

Amphitheater option - Daddy, rap down the gully at the backside of the buttress, do Mummy, rap down the gully again, do the short to hike the base of the Prow and climb out via the Prow. I usually leave my pack somewhere near the top of the descent gully before you start coming down the Amphitheater, so if you do that you'll top out a little ways down the hill from your packs.

Day 2:
Table Rock - White Lightning, Jim Dandy, Cracker Jack - lots of easy options at TR

Both days you'll just need one rope. Link lots of pitches! Feel free to PM if you need more beta!
Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Joined May 7, 2010
266 points
Sep 19, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: 50th State Highpoint!
When will you be there or are you looking for a partner? James Maughan
From Burnt Hills NY
Joined Oct 9, 2014
67 points
Sep 19, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: That's me
I"ve done all of the routes you've inquired about, and considering the time of year you'll be there I would recommend Bumble Bee Buttress. It's probably the longest, and it's the only route with a Bombay roof. Short off will be hot that time of year. You'll probably have the NC wall to yourself. Wungiz
From Asheville, NC
Joined Mar 23, 2005
240 points
Sep 19, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: goats yah
If you're looking to push the grade a little higher, Built to Tilt (5.10) is an incredible climb on Shortoff. First two pitches are a breeze and then there's the third pitch...just awesome. calebmmallory
From NC, Seattle, and Hong Kong
Joined Jun 5, 2015
379 points
Sep 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: on belay
I think the Thomas Kelly guide to NC is far superior to the NC selected climbs in particular for the gorge, but you will have to get it used somewhere(easily available on amazon). I Love the amphitheater area, but I haven't done many of the other climbs so take my suggestions with a grain of salt.

SD modiano is a pretty nice 3 pitch 5.9 in the back of the amphitheater that doesn't get much traffic, could probably be done in 2 pitches. Reggae wall has a number fun short hard climbs if you wanted to do some 5.9-5.11 TR. Reggae beta only available in the Kelly guide. Good heavens 5.8 variation into the cave/room is quite fun, the cave has a balcony you can walk out on too. You can pretty easily do mummy, daddy, good heavens and prow too in a single day if you pushed a little. oh and all would be easily done with a single 70m, just keep going back to the rap gully on the backside of the mummy buttress.
Kyle Cobbler
From Asheville NC
Joined Jun 3, 2014
422 points
Sep 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of me at Catslab
James Maughan wrote:
When will you be there or are you looking for a partner?


Sorry but I don't need a partner, just hanging with my girlfriend.

Wungiz wrote:
I"ve done all of the routes you've inquired about, and considering the time of year you'll be there I would recommend Bumble Bee Buttress. It's probably the longest, and it's the only route with a Bombay roof. Short off will be hot that time of year. You'll probably have the NC wall to yourself.


Not too concerned about the weather honestly. Climbing in Denver we will chase shade and elevation but even with that many days you are at 11,000' and it is 80+ and in the sun. If we can handle that we can handle the 70's they are calling for next week.

calebmmallory wrote:
If you're looking to push the grade a little higher, Built to Tilt (5.10) is an incredible climb on Shortoff. First two pitches are a breeze and then there's the third pitch...just awesome.


Appreciate the thoughts but to keep it easy and enjoyable for my girl probably going to keep it in the 5.8-5.9 range.

Kyle Cobbler wrote:
I think the Thomas Kelly guide to NC is far superior to the NC selected climbs in particular for the gorge, but you will have to get it used somewhere(easily available on amazon). I Love the amphitheater area, but I haven't done many of the other climbs so take my suggestions with a grain of salt. SD modiano is a pretty nice 3 pitch 5.9 in the back of the amphitheater that doesn't get much traffic, could probably be done in 2 pitches. Reggae wall has a number fun short hard climbs if you wanted to do some 5.9-5.11 TR. Reggae beta only available in the Kelly guide. Good heavens 5.8 variation into the cave/room is quite fun, the cave has a balcony you can walk out on too. You can pretty easily do mummy, daddy, good heavens and prow too in a single day if you pushed a little. oh and all would be easily done with a single 70m, just keep going back to the rap gully on the backside of the mummy buttress.


I got the NC Select climbs and it is pretty under whelming. Honestly disappointed in the beta it provides. I will see if I can get the Thomas Kelly guide before we leave on Friday. Thanks for the other thoughts.
Parker Wrozek
Joined Mar 30, 2012
153 points
Sep 20, 2016
Thomas Kelly's guide while good , doesn't have many , if any additional information on those routes.
Have fun!!!!
I'd probably just go with what you have and mountain project
Ezra Ellis
Joined Dec 12, 2007
14 points
Sep 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of me at Catslab
Ezra Ellis wrote:
Thomas Kelly's guide while good , doesn't have many , if any additional information on those routes. Have fun!!!! I'd probably just go with what you have and mountain project


It was cheap and had free shipping so it is all good. I have some friends who will be able to borrow the books too. It should be fun.
Parker Wrozek
Joined Mar 30, 2012
153 points
Sep 21, 2016
Parker,

Of the places mentioned, Shortoff would definitely be your best bet. Relatively easy and straightforward approaches (for Linville Gorge anyway). The Daddy, etc. in the Amphitheater are great but are a bit trickier (and time consuming) to access. Furthermore, the NC wall is fun as well but you'd probably spend half your day 'schwacking down to Bumblebee -- it's a wee bit overgrown right now. Be warned: Linville Gorge sets the standard for bushwhacking.

Whatever you decide, it looks like the weather is gonna cooperate (this time). Have fun!
nbrown
From western NC
Joined Nov 6, 2007
5,509 points
Sep 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of me at Catslab
Yeah man the weather is looking good. The more I read the guide I agree shortoff gives us the best chance for mileage. I will report back how it goes! Parker Wrozek
Joined Mar 30, 2012
153 points


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