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Achean Pronouncement
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Lingum Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X [details]
FA: Eric Goukas, 1984, solo
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 26, 2006

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  • Description 

    A very fun little arete with positive holds, but balancy stances. From the NW side of the North arete, on shaky ground but standing at a "belay" perched behind a small tree, step left onto some of the oddest horns and chicken heads you will likely ever see outside of Bryce Canyon. Traverse down and left to below a small roof with a big hueco above it. Get into the hueco, work the feet up and pull onto the face and arete above. Work your way up the arete, with the left on the arete and right on the face. Positive holds seem to appear at every needed time, but are not always easy to see. Balancy stances make the climb exciting even if on TR. The one "suspect" hold with a crack below it high on the arete proper was actually bomber, and marks the end of any real difficulty.

    Location 

    This route is up the West side of the sharp North Arete of the Lingum, the notched tower on the West Side of the Achean Pronouncement.

    Protection 

    Not much. Sling a few horns down low to protect the traverse, then solo or TR the rest. One can actually reach around the arete to the left and clip the bolts of Dangling Fury (I could reach them anyway) if desired, but not always from the best stances.
    The TR is off of D.F.'s 3-bolt anchor at the summit of the Lingum's North arete. I've tied one good sling on this with rap rings, but it needs some work still.


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