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Mt. Lincoln
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Falling Water TR 
Lincoln's Throat 
Mixed Idiot TR 

Lincoln's Throat 


Type:  Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Original: WI3 [details]
Season: Winter
Page Views: 5,583
Submitted By: KeithS on Dec 4, 2010

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Timmy headed down old bridal after climbing Lincol...


Lincoln's Throat ascends a drainage gully on the west side of Mt. Lincoln. To get to the gully, hike the Old Bridal Path for roughly a mile. When the trail makes a sharp left turn with a moderate drop to your right, descend here through the trees to an old logging road. Follow this road alongside the brook eventually hiking in the brook proper. Follow this all the way up passing 2 other gullies, one coming down from the right, the other from the left. The gully on the left takes you to the Serpentine route. Follow the main drainage as it continues to get steeper eventually leading to the "Throat", an iced up dihedral. Some steep snow leads you to the base of the ice then have at it! Several short bulges lie above the dihedral. Keep going until you hit the krumholtz then thrash/scramble/fight your way trending right eventually running into the ridge. From here, take it left to Lafayette and down Old Bridal or right over Lincoln and down Falling Waters.


West side of Mt. Lincoln. Descend off of the Old Bridal Path at the sharp left turn when you hear the brook down and away to your right


Several screws (6-8)

Photos of Lincoln's Throat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Owen hoofing up Lincoln's Throat.   bagleyheavybag...
Owen hoofing up Lincoln's Throat. bagleyheavybag...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just finishing the ice pitch.
Just finishing the ice pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Beta - Red line is the route. Blue are the l...
BETA PHOTO: Route Beta - Red line is the route. Blue are the l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Red is the route line. Blue are the low ice condit...
BETA PHOTO: Red is the route line. Blue are the low ice condit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Early season conditions
BETA PHOTO: Early season conditions
Rock Climbing Photo: The route as seen from Cannon...follows the obviou...
BETA PHOTO: The route as seen from Cannon...follows the obviou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch of WI 3
BETA PHOTO: Pitch of WI 3

Comments on Lincoln's Throat Add Comment
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By bradley white
From: Bend
Feb 3, 2012

That's the way to do it. Nice find.
By M LaViolette Jr.
From: The Past
Feb 20, 2012
rating: WI3

There is an extra left that comes off the main gully down low that confused us for a minute, just make sure to stay in the most prominent gully the whole way and you'll be on the right track. When it finally starts to get steep it will fork again, keep to the right. Also, if you're wondering if you should take your snowshoes or not, you should. There was a lot more snow in the gully than there was in the notch. We had a lot of fun, never thought I wouldn't be able to recognize Cannon cliff because it looked so small, "What the hell? Is that little dinky thing down there the Whitney-Gilman?"
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Dec 19, 2012

Just soloed it yesterday, and it was NOT fat like in the picture above. Definitely in the WI 4 range. There was at about 30 feet of dead vertical headwall where a lot of tool placements were hitting into the rock behind the ice. Up above the headwall it was as another reviewer remarked, "alpine perfection" up until the ridge. What was a nasty rainstorm down below was a serious snowblast with high winds up in the mountains. This is a definite must do for any NE alpinist, but if the ice looks really thin, be careful, it probably is!! It looks like there was a nice little mixed variation at a lower grade just left of the main flow which can link back up with the low angle finish up to the summit.
By Matt Clifton
From: Berkeley, CA
Dec 7, 2013

Climbed this on November 29th, 2013. Approach had lite snow and ice covered boulders. There are a few short sections of easy ice down low that take you to the throat. The throat was thin (wi3) there was a thicker left option clocking in around wi4. Due to the thin conditions (and we were soloing) we opted to bypass to the left side. Fairly easy but very exposed ice, dirt, tree "route". Following that was more easy ice and snow to the ridge. Great views from the summit. Ok route, just a lot of hiking for only a little ice.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Nov 12, 2014

You may want to only do this in early winter conditions. I saw a huge slab avalanche go down this gully. It is an avalanche chute once the snow builds.
By Derek Tremblay
From: NH
Dec 11, 2016

A torturous slog for a throwaway pitch.

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