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Lincoln Woods

Select Area...
Alcove, The 
Ball Buster 
Bear Hug Boulder 
Belief Boulder, The 
Best Kept Secret 
Beyond Summit Area 
Buddy Boulder 
Busy Child Boulder 
Captain Ahab Boulder 
Cloud's Rest Boulder 
Coke Bottle Boulder 
Comealong Boulder 
Dam Boulders 
Dream Time Boulder 
Egg, The 
Fatboy Boulder 
Fish and Chips wall 
Font Boulder 
Fred Boulder 
Gift, The 
Great Slab / Wave Boulder 
Green Drool 
Heart Boulder 
Hidden Boulders 
Horse Cave 
Improbable Boulder 
Jesus Loves You Boulder 
Joe's Little Secret 
Lake Side Boulder 
Little Bits Boulder 
Little Tomato 
Lodi's Warmup 
Lost Crag 
Lower Heart 
Parking Lot Boulders 
Peace Dove Boulder 
Pond Cave 
Pond Cave Parking Boulder 
Quarry Boulder, The 
Roadside Attraction 
Ship's Prow 
Sit Down area / Druid's Circle  
Slick 50 & The Whale Boulder 
Suicide Boulder 
Summit / Pinnacle Boulders 
Super Crack 2 
Talus Boulder 
Tomato Boulder 
Tombstone, The 
Triangle Boulder 
Try Again Boulder 
Tuolumne Boulder 
Warm Up Area aka The Tomato Overhangs / Mack'sTraverse 
Yosemite Boulder 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Pachaug Multi-Use Trail
A mellow singletrack with a wide corridor; some rocks and roots. Near Jewett City, Connecticut
Pachaug State Forest Loop
A scenic ride through Pachaug State Forest. Near Jewett City, Connecticut
Outer Loop Network
A network of wooded singletrack and some doubletrack with connections to Mass Central Rail Trail. Near West Boylston, Massachusetts
Mass Central Rail Trail - West Boylston to Holden
Popular, well-maintained rail trail that follows and crosses over the Quinapoxet River twice. Near West Boylston, Massachusetts
Big River Park & Ride - Carr Pond Loop
A fast and flowing loop w/ variety of tread from rolling switchbacks, open fields, to rock gardens. Near West Warwick, Rhode Island
Callahan Tour
A tour of both the Framingham and Marlborough sides of Callahan State Park. Near Framingham Center, Massachusetts
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Lincoln Woods Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.8975, -71.4339 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 113,581
Administrators: M Sprague, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: jeremyadams on Jan 27, 2007
Forecast:
This Afternoon

42° | 27°
Friday

36° | 16°
Saturday

30° | 19°
Sunday

34° | 28°
Monday

40° | 29°
Tuesday

37° | 26°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [3 people like this page.]

Description 

High quality bouldering on sharply-textured granite awaits urban adventurers in Lincoln Woods State Park, a few miles north of Providence, R.I. It is entirely fitting that Little Rhody's best climbing is on the small stones. Biking and walking trails link clusters of boulders, set among picnic areas and ponds. The climbing season extends deep into winter here, when sunny days in the 20s and 30s invite beanie-headed pebble wrestlers to enjoy killer friction with handwarmers simmering in chalkbags and wool socks stuffed in pockets. An excellent guidebook is complemented by beta on newenglandbouldering.com.

Getting There 

From Rt. 146, the Twin River Road exit gains a park entrance by turning east (left)at the end of the ramp. Once in the park, find roadside parking near the T intersection and follow the road left from the T through a gate. Follow the road right, between ponds, to the warm-up area (visable up hill on left). Park access is available from other entrances, too. Alternatively, if the gates are open, you can take a right after entering the park and drive all the way around the pond to get closer to to some of the bouldering.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.5 miles from here

482 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',93],['2 Stars',182],['1 Star',180],['Bomb',8]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',86],['V2-3',167],['V4-5',79],['V6-7',68],['V8-9',50],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',31],['>=V14',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lincoln Woods

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lincoln Woods:
Cave Warm Up   V0 4     Boulder, 12'   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Warm Up Cave
The Wave   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   Great Slab / Wave Boulder
The Lost Problem (aka Suicide Girls?)   V2+ 5+     Boulder   Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : Split Rock
Mack's Traverse   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 25'   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Mack's traverse
The Quiet Buddhist   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   Pond Cave
Peace Dove   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   Peace Dove Boulder
Neil's Lunge   V4- 6B     Boulder, 12'   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Warm Up Cave
The Pond Cave Traverse   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Pond Cave
Iron Cross   V4 6B     Boulder   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Iron Cross Boulder
Heart of Glass   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Heart Boulder
Sit Down Traverse   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : Split Rock
Try Again   V5 6C     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
The Executioner   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   The Tombstone
Loadies Zen   V6+ 7A     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
Leap Frog   V7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   Pond Cave
Who Needs Hueco   V8 7B     Boulder, 8'   Pond Cave
Barbed Wire   V8-9 7B+     Boulder   Tuolumne Boulder
hueco dreams   V9- 7C     Boulder, 18'   Pond Cave
Chemical   V9+ 7C     Boulder, 12'   The Egg
Keep It Hid   V11 8A     Boulder, 12'   Pond Cave
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lincoln Woods

Featured Route For Lincoln Woods
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the dyno

Leap Frog V7 7A+  Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
A very fun dyno using some uncharacteristic rock for lincoln woods. Start low on underclings in the quartzite on the right side of the cave. Move up mostly using crimps in the vertical crack and join the Pond Cave Traverse crack at its midway point. Grab a jug up and left and then launch yourself up and right to a decent hold over the lip that is both far away and hard to see (scope out ahead). Top out from there. This is a fun problem to try even if V7 is outside of your range....[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Photos of Lincoln Woods Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Buddy I love you boulder?.. fun little problem on ...
Buddy I love you boulder?.. fun little problem on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Goat Rock
Goat Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Lincoln Woods Detailed - submitted by Conor Phalen
Lincoln Woods Detailed - submitted by Conor Phalen
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of the woods.
BETA PHOTO: Map of the woods.
Rock Climbing Photo: map from the RIparks website.
BETA PHOTO: map from the RIparks website.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lincoln classic
Lincoln classic
Rock Climbing Photo: Spotted by Cory and Jake, with photo by Nelson, I ...
Spotted by Cory and Jake, with photo by Nelson, I ...

Comments on Lincoln Woods Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 31, 2016
By Ladd
Administrator
Apr 13, 2007
This area is filled with many quality problems.
However, the frequency with which I encountered eliminates and variations on obvious lines was a bit of a bummer.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008
An excellent area.Lots of fun problems, especially in th V2-V5 range and boulders are everywhere.
By Joe M.
Apr 10, 2009
Ladd, not being a jerk, just curious as to why eliminates and variatons bummed you out? you should be psyched that people are so motivated to climb that they will climb any and all variations. i have travelled all over the U.S. and have never found a more climbable rock than lincoln woods. holds everywhere, so the locals take adavantage of that and climb anything and everything. if you only want to climb the pure lines, go ahead, but i don't see where there is any negative in having more problems to climb. too me, more problems equals more fun! maybe it's just me...

now, if you said the grafitti or the sketchy people on the loop road bummed you out, i could understand that...
By Oliver Chong
Apr 15, 2011
The original site is still down, but you can still get the information using the Internet Archive Wayback Machine replay.waybackmachine.org/http...

It might not be the latest info though if the site was being updated over the last two years or so.
By Raff
Apr 2, 2013



Check out these videos that we made on some area classics!

Like the vids? Make sure to follow us at Less Than Sponsored for videos and more:
facebook.com/pages/Less-Than-S...
By Joe M.
Apr 16, 2014
There is a new parking lot near Try Again:

New Lincoln Woods Parking Lot
By Matt Bergeron
From: Nantucket, MA
Jun 1, 2014
hey guys, i was wondering as i'm new to the lincoln woods area what this boulder problem is, thanks! there was chalk marks so i decided to give it a try. it's on the back side of the other boulder next to the Peace Dove
By Joe M.
Jun 2, 2014
That is Sunnyside Left a V1 on the Jesus Loves you boulder: mountainproject.com/v/sunnysid...
By Matt Bergeron
From: Nantucket, MA
Jun 2, 2014
thanks, bud. realized there was an app and I was searching through it last night and found it.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 28, 2016
People have been bouldering at LW since at least the 1930s. It is mentioned in the November 1935 edition of Appalachia.
By Nickgrai
Mar 31, 2016
Any one know about a what appears to be a mudslide that opened up a large cave by the lost crag ??
By Nickgrai
Mar 31, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruff picture..
Ruff picture..