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Linan Rock Climbing 


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Location: 30.37196, 119.64012 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Arthur Fernandez on Mar 20, 2016
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Lion's head mountain

Description 

Probably the most famous climbing spot in Shanghai's area. Lot of people come to climb here, but still it is not too crowded due to the long approach to the crags.

Granit rock, with around a hundred routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.14-. Slab, sloppy, crack, cheminey, crimpy, multi pitches. You can find any type of climbing you like.

Guidebooks can be found on following link (in Chinese):
rock-lizard.org/bbs/thread-996...
A more complete version of the guidebook should be released soon.

Accomodation in the village is cheap and includes great breakfast and dinners. Count around 125RMB a day for a two bed's bedroom plus food for two.
Phone number of the owner : 138 6802 4301. Note that he does not speak any word of English.

Getting There 

Located near a small hamlet named longshangcun (龙上村), in the countryside north of Linan city.

Best way to get there is to rent a minivan from Shanghai for the weekend, which will cost you around 2000RMB for 10 seats. Another solution is to take the train to Hangzhou or Jiashan, and then book another taxi/minivan to get to the village.

Address of the hamlet in Chinese : 临安市高虹镇龙上村.

To get to the crag, leave the village by the south road and cross the small bridge. Then turn right on the small trail that heads up to the mountain. It's a 30 minutes long hike on a quite slopy trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.9 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Linan
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting to the crux. Chinese ladders - 5.11c

Chinese ladders 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Asia : East Asia : ... : Crazy Corner
Crux after the third QD. Crimpy left hand, bad feet and long move to reach a slopper right under the fourth QD. The slopper holds better on the right part.Note that the crimp broke last time I was there. Should still be climbable but don't know if it makes the move much harder or not.Alternative way of climbing from the right ?...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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Rock Climbing Photo: Lion's head mountain
Lion's head mountain

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