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Lime Kiln Canyon

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Back Walls, The 
Grail, The 
Redbud Canyon 
Sacred Trust, The 

Lime Kiln Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 36.66053, -114.01148 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 40,238
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 11, 2010  with updates from G Halsne
Forecast:
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Limekiln, a magical place

Description 

Lime Kiln Canyon is a limestone sport climbing area located just east of Mesquite, NV across the border in Arizona. It is composed of three main sectors:

The Grail which has many long, single pitch climbs of high quality vertical to slightly overhanging rock. There are also a handful of multi-pitch routes. Mostly shady. This is by far the most popular of the Lime Kiln crags.

The Sacred Trust which has a selection of single pitch climbs as well as a few 5+ pitch routes. This wall doesn't have quite the quality of rock as The Grail but there are still some fantastic climbs and plenty of sunshine makes it good for colder days.

The Back Walls which include all the climbing deep up canyon. These routes are mainly vertical and slightly slabby quality grey limestone where moderate grades abound.

Lime Kiln is best in the fall and spring. Winter is cold and summer is hot.

Human waste is a problem both near The Grail and near the camping/parking areas. Please come prepared to pack your shit out.

Getting There 

From I-15, take exit 120 or 122 for Mesquite and follow Mesquite Blvd (SR 144/NV-170) to Riverside Road (NV-170). Turn south on Riverside Road (NV-170) and follow it for 1.1 miles. Just after going over the Virgin River reset the odometer and immediately turn left onto White Rock Road. Continue for 10.7 miles. At 3.0 miles, keep left at the fork, continuing to a pull-off on the left at the start of the approach.

A quick 20 minute walk up the hill leads to The Grail or The Sacred Trust. Another 5-10 minutes leads to the Back Walls.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.5 miles from here

40 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',14],['5.11',9],['5.12',11],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lime Kiln Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lime Kiln Canyon:
Office Party   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 6 pitches, 350'   The Sacred Trust
Interlopers   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Sacred Trust
Mach 5   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Redbud Canyon
Simple Truths   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 5 pitches, 400'   The Sacred Trust
No Ordinary Moments   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   The Grail
Khaleesi   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   The Grail
The Madness   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   The Grail
Mesquiter    5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 110'   The Grail
The Sadness   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 115'   The Grail
Greyhound   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   The Grail
Vesper   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   The Grail
Total Depravity   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 165'   The Grail
The Goodness   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   The Grail
The The   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Grail
Mantis   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 110'   The Grail
Homo Faber   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 110'   The Grail
The Honeycomb   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 110'   The Grail
Voyager One   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   The Grail
Hoarse Platitudes    5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 120'   The Grail
Magnum Opus    5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a     Sport, 120'   The Grail
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lime Kiln Canyon

Featured Route For Lime Kiln Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Super long surprisingly pumpy route with a heartbr...

Mantis 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : The Grail
Start on the left side of a pod (just above a little down-climb on the walk into the Grail). The start is shared with Horse Platitudes. Break off to the left when you reach the left facing dihedral at mid-height. A sustained and boulder crux ensues shortly after. Crimp and high step your way to a rest below one last hard move up and left of a pod to the chains. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Lime Kiln Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Grail Overview
BETA PHOTO: Grail Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Long technical sport routes
Long technical sport routes
Rock Climbing Photo: dont let the photo fool you this place is huge... ...
dont let the photo fool you this place is huge... ...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking out on top of pitch 2 on unknown route on ...
looking out on top of pitch 2 on unknown route on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: view of Lime Kiln on the approach trail.
view of Lime Kiln on the approach trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Grail Wall on left
BETA PHOTO: Grail Wall on left
Rock Climbing Photo: Found several moderate looking sport climbs on thi...
BETA PHOTO: Found several moderate looking sport climbs on thi...

Comments on Lime Kiln Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 27, 2016
By DoNstamos
From: Subaru
Dec 15, 2013
So this place is fucking amazing, hands down it is a world class climbing area without the world class hype. I think Todd Goss and crew are responsible for the development of this area ( someone please correct me if I'm wrong) we ended up going here after we got snowed out in St George, the nice fellow at the Desert Rat told us of this little known gem.


Needless to say I was in awe, multi pitch lime stone climbing doesn't really come close to covering it.. you could spend quite some time here and never climb the same route twice. get your shitting pants on cause when you see this you'll shit.

I posted a few less washed out photos of this place, Brandon M's photo of the unknown 10a was incredibly helpful, but I thought I'd contribute a bit so that those new to the area may have a better bearing where they are. still not much info on this place.. I assume there is a guidebook? also this place will get you strong... if you ever plan on slaying spain or greece... warm up here.
By DoNstamos
From: Subaru
Dec 15, 2013
ran into a few locals and they were very nice. cheers! thanks for not being upset some slcites were blowing up your spot!
By Thomas Beck
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jan 13, 2015
As I remember the gravel/graded road in is OK with a 2WD vehicle till you get to the watering troughs. Then the road steepens and recent rains may have changed it's character. I'd be cautious in last 2 miles.
By MN norske
From: Henderson
Mar 8, 2015
Did it in a jetta with ease. Did I make at light speed? No but my car was fine with the last two miles. Loved this place. Will be back as much as possible.
By Manderson198
Apr 18, 2015
Is it possible for someone to send me the topo for this area (high-res version)? Thanks! --Michael
By Thomas Beck
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Apr 18, 2015
Manderson,

Some info resides on Summit Post and on climbing.com site but the pictures are generally not good. It's kind of warm to go there now. Better early spring and fall place.
By Manderson198
May 5, 2015
Hi Thomas,

Thanks for the info. I've been before, albeit only once. It definitely is gearing toward being too warm for many things now! I was just curious if anyone had the full-size version of the topo that is on the Grail Overview page.
By Caitlin Mac
From: Tempe
Oct 6, 2015
Can you get in here with a Prius? Is the camping at the end of the road as well, or do you have to drive from the camping to the climbing?
By Thomas Beck
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Oct 7, 2015
Catlin,

Camping is where you pull off the road and park to take the approach trails up to the crags. No water there though there is a spring nearby.

A Prius...maybe....if you drove slowly and carefully once the road got a bit rougher. I haven't been there in 2 years. A lot depends on the recent rainfall in the area. In any case there are places to dry camp before the trailhead.

Lime Kiln is about 4000 ft and Mesquite is actually lower elevation than Las Vegas
By Stephenmontgomery
From: Maryland
Dec 24, 2015
Still scouring for decent topos and more updates but here are a few routes not included on mp.

rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...
By harrison t
From: Black Hills, SD
Dec 26, 2015
or you could buy the new misty murphy guidebook. The limestone Bible.
By Alec Lutheran
From: mammoth lakes, ca
Jan 24, 2016
If you are exploring this area using Todd Goss's guidebook beware of the redbud canyon area. He states in the book that there is a possibility of rock fall. This is by no means a lie. Rock did indeed fall twice off of the 5.9+ Filthy Lucre. Though an awesome climb it would not be recommended without the proper safety gear. I would recommend finding climbs in other areas of the lime kiln. this area is especially dangerous with the tendency to attract new climbers who climb in the 5.7 to 5.9 range.
By Cha Tate
From: Saint George, UT
Apr 6, 2016
I'm a local who has been climbing here for a couple of years now. I was there yesterday and was discouraged by the amount of human feces and tp ALL over the place including 15 feet from the camping along side the road. Waste is also accumulating close to the climbing walls. We need to be the stewards of the areas we develop. Please take a WAG Bag waste kit, or bury your waste (including tp), and please hike at least 30-50 yards away from the wall to deposit your bum brownies into your well dug hole. For one, dogs find these deposits delightful and noone wants to smell a sewer while climbing here. Do your part to keep this area and all areas in the same condition we found them long ago. And if you see someone who doesn't understand that depositing 15 feet from the wall ruins it for everyone kindly educate them so they can learn how to treat our amazing climbing areas and outdoors. Lets keep this place amazing.
By 20 kN
Administrator
From: Hawaii
Apr 23, 2016
What a great place to climb! It's like a mini Potrero Chico. Thanks to all those putting in all the hard work to develop this area. I only have one complaint--the anchors used in the canyon. Many of the routes are equipped with the Fixe single ring anchors. Those things are literally the worst possible thing you could place at the top of a sport route. Because the rings do not meet in the center to form a single point, they totally and permanently twist the living shit out of your rope when you lower off on them (and even to a point if you rap off on them). PLEASE, stop adding these things! They are not designed as lower offs, they are designed for rap stations on multipitch routes, and even for that they kind of suck.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 23, 2016
Hey 20KN I totally agree. We used to use them for a short time. Perhaps if you get some folks together to raise some funds and purchase quicklinks and Mussies or or chain and old carabiners those who did the work or some other local will fix them up as we do here on Mt. Lemmon.
By Ryan Weller
From: Long Beach, CA
Nov 27, 2016
@harrison t , I wouldn't recommend the Limestone Bible, this area appears to be in the Todd Goss Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, which has a way nicer layout, maps, and descriptions.