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Limbo 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Eric Weinstein, Anders Ourom 1976
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 8, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

I've described this climb using a 'new' 1st pitch (as opposed to P1 of Survival Enhancement)

P1 (10d): Use some fancy footwork to finesse a seam past two bolts until a reachy move secures a great finger lock. Continue up easy crack to a 3rd bolt and trend hard left to the anchors (same ones as those of Survival Enhancement). 20m

P2 (11b): Climb easy cracks for about 40' until you can clip a bolt in white, smooth rock. Make a tough move through a small roof and continue up on good finger locks to a 2nd, larger roof. This roof is actually easier than the first - there is a rusty old pin under the overhang but a huge jug allows you to place a bomber cam over the roof. Another 20' of easy climbing gets you to the anchor (35m)

P3 (10a): Continue up the crack as it trends left, eventually it peters out and a bolt protects a face move to the anchors. The guidebook has this pitch at 10d but there is no way....it is 10a at the most. (25m).

P4 (10a): move right from the station and climb past 4 bolts to the top. 10m

Descent: either walk off to the north or locate the anchor atop Centrefold and rap as for that route

Location 

Starts 5m left of Centrefold

Protection 

I'd recommend a double rack to 1" and a single yellow and blue camalot


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