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Lily and the Jack of Hearts S 

Lily and the Jack of Hearts 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 624
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Gino @ the crux.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


Cool climbing on good-size holds. The route still needs a little cleaning but offers a nice pitch of steep climbing right off the road.


On the right side of the South Face just right of the "Joker and the Thief".


Four clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

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By Chris O'Connor
From: boulder, co
Jul 27, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fun bouldery feeling route, but a bit dirty. I suggest belaying off to the side to avoid being showered with grit.
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Meh. Short, dirty, and lots of crumbly rock. If I were a scout leader, I would take the kids here every day for a summer and eventually all of the duff might get cleaned off. Or maybe not.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Still shedding/crumbly. Good climbing on poorly cleaned rock- might get better with time. Hard to on-sight, as above the roof is a semi-blind balance move, but not hard once you know what to do. Bolt just above the roof is placed awkwardly for the rope if you go up and fall on that, which is the crux. Maybe a long draw (10-12" and beefy) would be best so you don't cut your rope or sling on the flake as your taut rope slices across it.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 9, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Cleaned up a little more last night. Just stay right once you pull the roof and avoid the crumble.

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