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Lilypad Boulders
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L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon Tails 
Lillypad Problem 
Prelude to Fear 
Steve's Problem 
Warm-up akaTurtle Flakes 

Lillypad Problem 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Neil Pothier
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: cstorms on Oct 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: topo

Description 

The best problem out of the bunch down here.. I'd give it more stars if it wasn't so sharp. Start on the thin crimp at about head height. Work up to the three finger pocket, top out straight up. #2 on the beta photo.

Location 

The most obvious line at the lilypad boulders.. climbs the bulge from a stand start

Protection 

pad


Photos of Lillypad Problem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed Sewall 1987 early ascent of Lilly Pad problem
Ed Sewall 1987 early ascent of Lilly Pad problem

Comments on Lillypad Problem Add Comment
Show which comments
By cstorms
From: North Bend, OR
Oct 5, 2011

Does anyone know any details about the sit start to this problem, Prelude to Fear? It is obvious that there is a sit start, just not what the sequence would be.
By Joe M.
Administrator
Oct 6, 2011

Pretty much sit down with left hand around left side and right hand on whatever you can grab. Move up and slightly right to match the sharp crimp that you start the stand on. I have been told that it has also been done starting sitting slight to the right (kind of in the crevice of the two boulders) but the orignal way was a little more to the left.
By cstorms
From: North Bend, OR
Dec 6, 2011

so basically use whatever you can down low to get into that decent slot, then up to the razor crimp, and then finish up lilypad problem? thanks for your help
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 13, 2013

From Ed Sewall's description - "The Lily Pad is a very hard route located down on a boulder below the Neils Lunge/Iron Cross boulders near the pond. It starts as a sit problem and goes up through teh obvious painful pockets. Its @ V7 I think. Neil Pothier did FA I believe, and Andrew Sornborger and I repeated it @ 1987."

Paul Baird's notes say Neil Pothier 77-79 "Start slightly right using small horizontalcrack reach for pockets and lunge for the top" - no mention of sitting down. I seem to remember (whatever that is worth) always trying it as a sit down back in the day, but never got it as it was a little too reachy for me.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 5, 2015

Is the flake out right considered 'off'? Seems pretty natural to use it.
By Joe M.
Administrator
Nov 5, 2015

Yes, the flake and good holds to the right are off, mostly because it kind of draws you into the gap between the boulders. Lily Pad stays out on the nose of the boulder pretty straight up from the crimps to the pocket to the top.

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